We woke up to the smell of breakfast and fresh-perked coffee.  The first impression of the Stephen Taber was “cramped quarters.”  The first “best impression” was “good food.”  I browsed through the stowed gear and my bunk, looking for clothes and the coffee cup that had been issued to us during the prior evening’s “all hands on deck” meeting.  I found the cup and enough clothing to be decent and fairly warm in the chilly September morning.  I followed my nose to a great cup of coffee and the cruise was officially underway.

We had boarded this 127 year-old schooner the previous afternoon and spent the night listening to the gentle lapping of bay waters against her wooden hull.  Despite the excitement of our pending adventure and the cramped space we would call home for the next week, we slept quite well. 

We were welcomed aboard by First Mate David Clemens, who we later learned was better known as Super Dave.  Dave directed each member of the cruise to their quarters and helped with the luggage.  We had been advised to bring only one small duffel bag filled with only what we absolutely must have to keep warm, dry and decent.  That advice was mostly ignored.  This was billed as the photography and lighthouse cruise.  Nearly every couple had at least one camera bag and a tripod.  Storing all that junk in the space allotted was … problematic.  But we managed. 

Dinner was not served that first evening but Captain Noah Barnes came aboard for the all hands meeting and answered questions about places to eat and things to do on our final evening in Rockland. 

We wandered around Rockland for an hour or so, returning to the ship after an expensive but not so good dinner at the Black Bull Restaurant.  We spent the evening hours socializing with the other twenty or so passengers aboard the Stephen Taber. 

The morning was bright and beautiful; the coffee was just as good as it had smelled and Cara, the Galley Mate, had prepared a huge feast of blueberry pancakes, bacon and fruit for breakfast.  In the bright, but slightly chilled, morning air, we had breakfast on the open deck rather than in the cramped surroundings of the absolutely authentic galley of the Taber.

I said authentic because everything Cara cooked was on the old wood-burning stove and the associated oven of this National Historic Landmark.  The Steven Taber was certified as a National Historic Landmark in 1991.  Nothing can be added to or taken from the vessel that would change authenticity.  Rather than go into a lot of detail about her historical significance, I will post this link.

The sailing got underway at a very casual pace.  The passengers were almost immediately involved in sailing the ship, literally.  Hoisting sail takes a lot of hands.  It was exciting.  Most of us knew little to nothing about sailing.  We started learning the lingo, names for all those huge hunks of canvas and which lines to pull and how to secure them.  It certainly helped work up an appetite for lunch. 

We were having a difficult time switching between being sailors and photographers.  I kept the little Sony in a pocket so that it was immediately available.  It worked but I was having a hard time controlling depth of field and exposures in some harsh conditions.  We had not left the harbor until around eleven o’clock. That meant taking pictures in some harsh conditions.  Plus, using the rigging and sailing equipment for foreground interest made aperture settings critical.  The main drawback to a point and shoot is the lack of manual controls.   I panicked and switched to the Nikon. 

Above is the Rockland Breakwater Light.  Owls Head Light was off to the opposite and much too far for a photograph.  At this point we were under full sail and headed into the Penobscot Bay.  Our destination according to Captain Barnes was, “Wherever the takes us.”   

With so many small (and a few larger) islands along the Maine coast, there was always another image that needed taking.  Jane and I managed, however, to relax and enjoy the scenery, feeling romantic and thoroughly enjoying our 50th Anniversary Cruise.

The day passed quickly.  We took pictures, socialized and ate.  It seems that even the do-it-yourself cruises are as much about fine dining as are the major cruise lines.  Though we ate outside, the food and service were fantastic.  Above, deck hand Julie is doubling as galley hand to help serve lunch.  I think I remember this being the most delicious tomato soup I ever tasted. 

I’m drawing on a very old memory to piece this together.  Procrastination is my strong suite.  I think our first anchorage was in Northeast Harbor.  I seem to remember the crew mentioning Cranberry Islands.  Evenings were special. After dinner, we would socialize and follow the sun down.  Most of us would photograph the event.

Sunset was followed by basic photography classes, the presentation coming from certified PPA photographer John Shipman.  John specializes in wedding photography in the Philadelphia area.  That first night was a discussion of the basics with John getting to better understand the level of expertise of our group.  There were some very skilled photographers on our cruise.  Others were hobbyist, but all seemed fairly well versed in the basics.

All that fresh air, good food and a few glasses of fine wine led to an early retirement for me.  That and the knowledge that some of us would be tasked to raise anchor and hoist sail.  Sailing is heavy duty work. 

I have procrastinated so long, and am so far from completing my story of this trip, that I want to close here and break this into several parts.  I will try to more punctual with the next edition.

l8r

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MidCoast Maine’s lonely lighthouses and scenic harbors festooned with lobster boats and buoys are part of our maritime heritage and also important tools for Maine’s working fishermen today. Fishing and boat building have been mainstays of the region’s economy since the 1700’s.

I plagiarized that paragraph from one of Maine’s numerous websites.  It summarizes my impression of our first few days in Maine.  Each of the highlighted hyperlinks is good reading. I’m hoping, however, that you will take the time to read about our personal adventure before being diverted. 

The pictures are mine.  Just thought I would throw in some illustration to set the mood for the following verbiage on our adventures.  Hard to put that much color in words.  Not being able to express my feelings for the color and atmosphere of coastal Maine leaves me longing for a better education. 

We left our motel in Farmington with no particular place to go.  Our only commitments were a motel reservation  the night before boarding our ship, the cruise commitment itself, and a reservation at an ocean-side cabin in Stonington, Maine.  We were too early to check into the motel, so we decided to wander. 

We both were curious about Acadia National Park but had planned to tour the park from our cottage in Stonington.  We would be there the week after our cruise.    The motel we had reserved was in Lincolnville Beach, very close to Rockland, where we would board the Stephen Taber, a 137 year-old schooner on which we would be sailing in a few days.  After wandering into Bangor, we veered south, around Ellsworth and through Bucksport toward Rockland. 

Lighthouses were on the menu.  We decided to explore the area around our boarding point.  Jane called and confirmed that we could check into the motel a few days early.  Aren’t cell phones marvelous? 

As we neared our coastal destination, Jane began pointing out all the references to Lobster!  When we passed a sign touting a lobster roll special for just $9.95, she insisted that I turn and go back.  The restaurant was a simple diner … two double-wide trailers, modified to accommodate a dining room and kitchen with restrooms … but, Wow!  The seafood was fantastic.  I had never had a lobster roll but am now a huge fan of that sandwich delicacy.  In addition to the lobster roll, I added a cup of fish chowder.  What a deal; we were in seafood heaven. 

Check in at the ‘50s-style cottage/motel was three o’clock.  The cabins were right on US Route 1, overlooking Penobscot Bay.  It was not much to look at but  it was cheap.  And, it served the purpose, a place to sleep, shower, and, occasionally, the internet connection worked. 

Three o’clock was an estimate.  There was a sign on the door with a number to call if you need anything.  We called and got an answering machine. Pretty casual operation. 

  We left a message, grabbed a few brochures on local attractions and set out on our coastal adventure.  We were just a few minutes from Camden, Rockport and Rockland.   There was a state park along our route into Camden, Camden Hills State Park.  We passed that by, choosing to see if our ship was anchored in Rockland Harbor, and to familiarize ourselves with the surroundings.  We would be needing groceries, laundry facilities, and more lobster. 

We found the ships docking facilities but it was out on a cruise.  We had the info we needed and spent some time investigating Rockland.  I needed to find a place to buy a tripod to replace the one I had just broken.  Rockland is a small town.  The camera store did not stock the Manfrotto that I wanted.  I had to settle for a really cheap Slik.  It had to do.  The lady in the store suggested that the closest place that “might” have what I needed was Bangor. 

We discovered Rockland Breakwater Light by accident.   It was very interesting; a lighthouse at the end of a nearly mile-long stone breakwater to warn ships of the breakwater.  There was a flat surface along the breakwater, making it possible to walk out to the lighthouse and museum.  We walked out slowly, talking with fisherman and a few other photographers along the way.  The museum was closed.  I did get a few decent photos.  We also noticed that Owls Head Light was visible in the distance.  We would catch that one at a later date.

We found the Laundromat and stopped at the grocery for a few supplies.  I noted where the library was, just in case I needed an internet connection.  We finally got checked into the motel and spent much of the evening relaxing and studying for more exploring.  I read a great article on the lighthouses in the area and Jane looked into activities and events.  We spent a little time combining travel to and from the lighthouses with activities and events.  It was Labor Day Weekend.  There was plenty happening.

Our first full day in the area was quite full.  We drove up Mount Battie in Camden Hills State Park and enjoyed the view of Camden Harbor and Penobscot Bay.  I’m not sure what else Camden Hills State Park has to offer.  We stayed only long enough to take in the view, then drove through Rockland and along the coast to Owls Head, the village and the lighthouse.  I took a few pictures of the lighthouse but found the fishing/lobstering village much more interesting … and photogenic.  The colorful lobster pots (traps) stacked along the wharf make a great foreground for shooting boats and ships along the coast and in the harbor. 

The lobstermen were busy cleaning, maintaining, and preparing the traps for their next trip into the bay.  They must have been accustomed to tourists.   They paid very little attention to me wandering around the wharf photographing them and their way of life.  It was a thrilling day for me.  Jane was having fun too; I think she is amused just to see me get so excited. 

While in Owls Head, we noticed signs for an antique motorcycle and aviation show at the Owls Head Transportation Museum.  We took note of the date and time but put it on the agenda for another day.  I had also taken note of an advertisement for Glider Rides – something I have always wanted to do.

The following day, we drove a bit farther south to see the Pemaquid Point Light. It was the farthest south we would venture along Mid-Coast Maine.  I read that Mid-Coast Maine is loosely defined as that area of the coast between Bath to Bar Harbor.  I gather it is generally the area referred to as “Down East.”

Pemaquid Point Lighthouse is near Bristol and is accessed from Damariscotta on US Route 1 via ME 130.  There is a park and picnic area built around the lighthouse.  It is a very popular attraction, both for locals and tourists.  Getting unimpeded pictures can be a bit trying.  I clambered down the rocky outcrops for a low-angle image with the rocks creating an excellent foreground to emphasize the obvious danger to transportation and cargo vessels.  Even then, I had to wait for some German photographers to move their tripods and family of models.

I later found the patience to get a shot of the grounds, the light keeper’s house, the bell tower and  the museum, which is in the light keeper’s house.  Pemaquid was by far the most photogenic of all the light houses we visited.  It is a must see for anyone traveling the Maine Coast.  I spent a lot of time taking pictures and, if ever in Maine again, would love to return for more. 

Driving through the countryside is an adventure.  As per our modus operandi, we we chose to return along the scenic route, ME 32, connecting with US 1 at Waldoboro.   It led to another adventure.  Just north of Bremen,  we saw a sign for seafood and lobster, cooked or fresh to go – just follow the signs to BCMS.  We made a U-turn and headed for BCMS,  Whatever the heck BCMS might be. 

In Broad Cove, we found a fishing wharf, piles of fishing equipment and lobster pots and a huge warehouse-like facility.  The Broad Cove Marine Services (BCMS) facility.  I thought, “We must be lost.”  There was nothing even similar to a restaurant or wholesale/retail store.  But, wandering around and asking a fisherman some  questions led us to the “restaurant.”  It wasn’t much. 

We ordered a lobster lunch, paid the bill and walked out to an area containing a few tables and chairs.  Jane was tickled with the “quaint” atmosphere.  I was taking in the bay and the very photogenic fishing fleet.  I was gradually learning bits and pieces on the life of a lobsterman – a very rugged bunch, in my opinion.

Our lunch arrived on paper plates with plastic utensils.  It seemed perfect.  We were right at the source of a delicacy we so often pass on because of the outrageous prices.  These lobster were straight off the boat with no middleman – except for the fisherman (or his wife) who prepared it for us.  And all for the phenomenally low price of $13.95.  We were tickled.  If you go to Pemaquid Lighthouse, don’t miss the BCMS on your return trip. 

We made one more stop on our way back to our motel.  Lighthouses were my mission so we took ME 131 from Thomaston on US 1 toward St. George and Point Clyde, reaching Marshall Point lighthouse as the sun settled in the western sky.  Marshall Point Light, as are most Maine lighthouses, is also very popular with photographers  and tourists. I seldom include people in my pictures because of the need for model releases when I go to sell them.  However, I managed to silhouette this couple, eliminating the need for a release, which is required for all “recognizable” people in a photograph. 

This old anchor was the perfect foreground for this nautical navigation and transportation scenic.  Shooting into the setting sun was a bit difficult.  I liked the image but must admit that it was rejected for “poor lighting.” 

Memory fails me and there are very few notes to pull from.  I’m pretty sure this was a Saturday excursion.  We were passing through many small towns and villages.  Each was involved in Labor Day Weekend activities.  We saw many signs advertising these local activities and even stopped for what we thought was a Volunteer Fire Department fund raiser – a lobster stew lunch.  We were a day early.  We pulled into the advertised parking lot but only found a crowd of people preparing the lobster.  The lobster stew and chowder lunch was scheduled for the next day.  The crew jokingly asked if we would like to help crack, or shuck, or whatever you call taking a lobster out of its shell.  We declined.  I later told Jane, “Hey, we screwed up!  Do you realize that they were eating nearly as much lobster as they were throwing into the pots?  We could be eating FREE lobster.” 

I remember now, the next day was Saturday, the 5th of September.  Camden was hosting a huge celebration, centered around the Windjammer Fleet.  We made a quick dash up Mount Battie (Camden Hills State Park) to look down at the crowded town of Camden.  We decided to chance it anyway.  We managed to find a parking spot in this small town where parking spaces are at a premium, getting  a kick out of this No Parking sign on a church wall near where we finally found a spot to park. 

Seeing these beautiful relics of our past made us anxious to begin our voyage on the Stephen Taber, which was disappointingly not one of the old wooden schooners in the Camden Harbor for the festival.  Access to the ships in the harbor was surprisingly simple.  I got a few pictures before we made our way to the food.  Several of the local restaurants were participating in the Camden Chowder Challenge.  They were offering a tray filled with a cup of chowder from each restaurant.  The idea was to mark the accompanying form rating the chowders from your favorite to least favorite. 

We had fun at the festival but needed to run a few errands before boarding our schooner.  We spent the rest of that Saturday doing the mundane things that have to be done … laundry, for instance.  Since we would be checking out of the motel the following morning, we decided to get things done and sort what would be stored in the car from what little we could get by with taking on board the Stephen Taber.  

We were out of the motel early.  Boarding was at 4 o’clock and we had a few sites to investigate before boarding the ship.  There was a motorcycle and antique aviation exhibit at the Owls Head Transportation Museum.  I must say that if you travel this area of Maine, you will have plenty of entertainment.  I don’t know who is responsible but they do a great job of scheduling events and activities for tourists … and the residents.

We drove back to Owls Head to check out the Motorcycle and Aviation Show at the Transportation Museum in Owls Head.  What I had expected to be a dull day turned into a really fun adventure. I especially enjoyed the antique aircraft. And, I got some great pictures of old cars and motorcycles.  I took a few video clips of the antique aircraft in flight.  I will save those for another time.

This old car is a 1907 Renault Vanderbilt Racer.  It is just one example of an enormous collection of cars, motorcycles, bicycles, wagons, trains, airplanes, etc.  And, the collection is not static.  There are permanent exhibits as well as temporary displays offered by proud supporters of the facility.

We enjoyed the day but were constantly checking the time, anxious for four o’clock and boarding the subject and highlight of our East Coast Adventure – the historic sailing vessel, Stephen Tabor.  We spent the night aboard her with departure scheduled for ten the following morning.  The excitement is just beginning.

l8r

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