We woke up to the smell of breakfast and fresh-perked coffee.  The first impression of the Stephen Taber was “cramped quarters.”  The first “best impression” was “good food.”  I browsed through the stowed gear and my bunk, looking for clothes and the coffee cup that had been issued to us during the prior evening’s “all hands on deck” meeting.  I found the cup and enough clothing to be decent and fairly warm in the chilly September morning.  I followed my nose to a great cup of coffee and the cruise was officially underway.

We had boarded this 127 year-old schooner the previous afternoon and spent the night listening to the gentle lapping of bay waters against her wooden hull.  Despite the excitement of our pending adventure and the cramped space we would call home for the next week, we slept quite well. 

We were welcomed aboard by First Mate David Clemens, who we later learned was better known as Super Dave.  Dave directed each member of the cruise to their quarters and helped with the luggage.  We had been advised to bring only one small duffel bag filled with only what we absolutely must have to keep warm, dry and decent.  That advice was mostly ignored.  This was billed as the photography and lighthouse cruise.  Nearly every couple had at least one camera bag and a tripod.  Storing all that junk in the space allotted was … problematic.  But we managed. 

Dinner was not served that first evening but Captain Noah Barnes came aboard for the all hands meeting and answered questions about places to eat and things to do on our final evening in Rockland. 

We wandered around Rockland for an hour or so, returning to the ship after an expensive but not so good dinner at the Black Bull Restaurant.  We spent the evening hours socializing with the other twenty or so passengers aboard the Stephen Taber. 

The morning was bright and beautiful; the coffee was just as good as it had smelled and Cara, the Galley Mate, had prepared a huge feast of blueberry pancakes, bacon and fruit for breakfast.  In the bright, but slightly chilled, morning air, we had breakfast on the open deck rather than in the cramped surroundings of the absolutely authentic galley of the Taber.

I said authentic because everything Cara cooked was on the old wood-burning stove and the associated oven of this National Historic Landmark.  The Steven Taber was certified as a National Historic Landmark in 1991.  Nothing can be added to or taken from the vessel that would change authenticity.  Rather than go into a lot of detail about her historical significance, I will post this link.

The sailing got underway at a very casual pace.  The passengers were almost immediately involved in sailing the ship, literally.  Hoisting sail takes a lot of hands.  It was exciting.  Most of us knew little to nothing about sailing.  We started learning the lingo, names for all those huge hunks of canvas and which lines to pull and how to secure them.  It certainly helped work up an appetite for lunch. 

We were having a difficult time switching between being sailors and photographers.  I kept the little Sony in a pocket so that it was immediately available.  It worked but I was having a hard time controlling depth of field and exposures in some harsh conditions.  We had not left the harbor until around eleven o’clock. That meant taking pictures in some harsh conditions.  Plus, using the rigging and sailing equipment for foreground interest made aperture settings critical.  The main drawback to a point and shoot is the lack of manual controls.   I panicked and switched to the Nikon. 

Above is the Rockland Breakwater Light.  Owls Head Light was off to the opposite and much too far for a photograph.  At this point we were under full sail and headed into the Penobscot Bay.  Our destination according to Captain Barnes was, “Wherever the takes us.”   

With so many small (and a few larger) islands along the Maine coast, there was always another image that needed taking.  Jane and I managed, however, to relax and enjoy the scenery, feeling romantic and thoroughly enjoying our 50th Anniversary Cruise.

The day passed quickly.  We took pictures, socialized and ate.  It seems that even the do-it-yourself cruises are as much about fine dining as are the major cruise lines.  Though we ate outside, the food and service were fantastic.  Above, deck hand Julie is doubling as galley hand to help serve lunch.  I think I remember this being the most delicious tomato soup I ever tasted. 

I’m drawing on a very old memory to piece this together.  Procrastination is my strong suite.  I think our first anchorage was in Northeast Harbor.  I seem to remember the crew mentioning Cranberry Islands.  Evenings were special. After dinner, we would socialize and follow the sun down.  Most of us would photograph the event.

Sunset was followed by basic photography classes, the presentation coming from certified PPA photographer John Shipman.  John specializes in wedding photography in the Philadelphia area.  That first night was a discussion of the basics with John getting to better understand the level of expertise of our group.  There were some very skilled photographers on our cruise.  Others were hobbyist, but all seemed fairly well versed in the basics.

All that fresh air, good food and a few glasses of fine wine led to an early retirement for me.  That and the knowledge that some of us would be tasked to raise anchor and hoist sail.  Sailing is heavy duty work. 

I have procrastinated so long, and am so far from completing my story of this trip, that I want to close here and break this into several parts.  I will try to more punctual with the next edition.

l8r

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MidCoast Maine’s lonely lighthouses and scenic harbors festooned with lobster boats and buoys are part of our maritime heritage and also important tools for Maine’s working fishermen today. Fishing and boat building have been mainstays of the region’s economy since the 1700’s.

I plagiarized that paragraph from one of Maine’s numerous websites.  It summarizes my impression of our first few days in Maine.  Each of the highlighted hyperlinks is good reading. I’m hoping, however, that you will take the time to read about our personal adventure before being diverted. 

The pictures are mine.  Just thought I would throw in some illustration to set the mood for the following verbiage on our adventures.  Hard to put that much color in words.  Not being able to express my feelings for the color and atmosphere of coastal Maine leaves me longing for a better education. 

We left our motel in Farmington with no particular place to go.  Our only commitments were a motel reservation  the night before boarding our ship, the cruise commitment itself, and a reservation at an ocean-side cabin in Stonington, Maine.  We were too early to check into the motel, so we decided to wander. 

We both were curious about Acadia National Park but had planned to tour the park from our cottage in Stonington.  We would be there the week after our cruise.    The motel we had reserved was in Lincolnville Beach, very close to Rockland, where we would board the Stephen Taber, a 137 year-old schooner on which we would be sailing in a few days.  After wandering into Bangor, we veered south, around Ellsworth and through Bucksport toward Rockland. 

Lighthouses were on the menu.  We decided to explore the area around our boarding point.  Jane called and confirmed that we could check into the motel a few days early.  Aren’t cell phones marvelous? 

As we neared our coastal destination, Jane began pointing out all the references to Lobster!  When we passed a sign touting a lobster roll special for just $9.95, she insisted that I turn and go back.  The restaurant was a simple diner … two double-wide trailers, modified to accommodate a dining room and kitchen with restrooms … but, Wow!  The seafood was fantastic.  I had never had a lobster roll but am now a huge fan of that sandwich delicacy.  In addition to the lobster roll, I added a cup of fish chowder.  What a deal; we were in seafood heaven. 

Check in at the ‘50s-style cottage/motel was three o’clock.  The cabins were right on US Route 1, overlooking Penobscot Bay.  It was not much to look at but  it was cheap.  And, it served the purpose, a place to sleep, shower, and, occasionally, the internet connection worked. 

Three o’clock was an estimate.  There was a sign on the door with a number to call if you need anything.  We called and got an answering machine. Pretty casual operation. 

  We left a message, grabbed a few brochures on local attractions and set out on our coastal adventure.  We were just a few minutes from Camden, Rockport and Rockland.   There was a state park along our route into Camden, Camden Hills State Park.  We passed that by, choosing to see if our ship was anchored in Rockland Harbor, and to familiarize ourselves with the surroundings.  We would be needing groceries, laundry facilities, and more lobster. 

We found the ships docking facilities but it was out on a cruise.  We had the info we needed and spent some time investigating Rockland.  I needed to find a place to buy a tripod to replace the one I had just broken.  Rockland is a small town.  The camera store did not stock the Manfrotto that I wanted.  I had to settle for a really cheap Slik.  It had to do.  The lady in the store suggested that the closest place that “might” have what I needed was Bangor. 

We discovered Rockland Breakwater Light by accident.   It was very interesting; a lighthouse at the end of a nearly mile-long stone breakwater to warn ships of the breakwater.  There was a flat surface along the breakwater, making it possible to walk out to the lighthouse and museum.  We walked out slowly, talking with fisherman and a few other photographers along the way.  The museum was closed.  I did get a few decent photos.  We also noticed that Owls Head Light was visible in the distance.  We would catch that one at a later date.

We found the Laundromat and stopped at the grocery for a few supplies.  I noted where the library was, just in case I needed an internet connection.  We finally got checked into the motel and spent much of the evening relaxing and studying for more exploring.  I read a great article on the lighthouses in the area and Jane looked into activities and events.  We spent a little time combining travel to and from the lighthouses with activities and events.  It was Labor Day Weekend.  There was plenty happening.

Our first full day in the area was quite full.  We drove up Mount Battie in Camden Hills State Park and enjoyed the view of Camden Harbor and Penobscot Bay.  I’m not sure what else Camden Hills State Park has to offer.  We stayed only long enough to take in the view, then drove through Rockland and along the coast to Owls Head, the village and the lighthouse.  I took a few pictures of the lighthouse but found the fishing/lobstering village much more interesting … and photogenic.  The colorful lobster pots (traps) stacked along the wharf make a great foreground for shooting boats and ships along the coast and in the harbor. 

The lobstermen were busy cleaning, maintaining, and preparing the traps for their next trip into the bay.  They must have been accustomed to tourists.   They paid very little attention to me wandering around the wharf photographing them and their way of life.  It was a thrilling day for me.  Jane was having fun too; I think she is amused just to see me get so excited. 

While in Owls Head, we noticed signs for an antique motorcycle and aviation show at the Owls Head Transportation Museum.  We took note of the date and time but put it on the agenda for another day.  I had also taken note of an advertisement for Glider Rides – something I have always wanted to do.

The following day, we drove a bit farther south to see the Pemaquid Point Light. It was the farthest south we would venture along Mid-Coast Maine.  I read that Mid-Coast Maine is loosely defined as that area of the coast between Bath to Bar Harbor.  I gather it is generally the area referred to as “Down East.”

Pemaquid Point Lighthouse is near Bristol and is accessed from Damariscotta on US Route 1 via ME 130.  There is a park and picnic area built around the lighthouse.  It is a very popular attraction, both for locals and tourists.  Getting unimpeded pictures can be a bit trying.  I clambered down the rocky outcrops for a low-angle image with the rocks creating an excellent foreground to emphasize the obvious danger to transportation and cargo vessels.  Even then, I had to wait for some German photographers to move their tripods and family of models.

I later found the patience to get a shot of the grounds, the light keeper’s house, the bell tower and  the museum, which is in the light keeper’s house.  Pemaquid was by far the most photogenic of all the light houses we visited.  It is a must see for anyone traveling the Maine Coast.  I spent a lot of time taking pictures and, if ever in Maine again, would love to return for more. 

Driving through the countryside is an adventure.  As per our modus operandi, we we chose to return along the scenic route, ME 32, connecting with US 1 at Waldoboro.   It led to another adventure.  Just north of Bremen,  we saw a sign for seafood and lobster, cooked or fresh to go – just follow the signs to BCMS.  We made a U-turn and headed for BCMS,  Whatever the heck BCMS might be. 

In Broad Cove, we found a fishing wharf, piles of fishing equipment and lobster pots and a huge warehouse-like facility.  The Broad Cove Marine Services (BCMS) facility.  I thought, “We must be lost.”  There was nothing even similar to a restaurant or wholesale/retail store.  But, wandering around and asking a fisherman some  questions led us to the “restaurant.”  It wasn’t much. 

We ordered a lobster lunch, paid the bill and walked out to an area containing a few tables and chairs.  Jane was tickled with the “quaint” atmosphere.  I was taking in the bay and the very photogenic fishing fleet.  I was gradually learning bits and pieces on the life of a lobsterman – a very rugged bunch, in my opinion.

Our lunch arrived on paper plates with plastic utensils.  It seemed perfect.  We were right at the source of a delicacy we so often pass on because of the outrageous prices.  These lobster were straight off the boat with no middleman – except for the fisherman (or his wife) who prepared it for us.  And all for the phenomenally low price of $13.95.  We were tickled.  If you go to Pemaquid Lighthouse, don’t miss the BCMS on your return trip. 

We made one more stop on our way back to our motel.  Lighthouses were my mission so we took ME 131 from Thomaston on US 1 toward St. George and Point Clyde, reaching Marshall Point lighthouse as the sun settled in the western sky.  Marshall Point Light, as are most Maine lighthouses, is also very popular with photographers  and tourists. I seldom include people in my pictures because of the need for model releases when I go to sell them.  However, I managed to silhouette this couple, eliminating the need for a release, which is required for all “recognizable” people in a photograph. 

This old anchor was the perfect foreground for this nautical navigation and transportation scenic.  Shooting into the setting sun was a bit difficult.  I liked the image but must admit that it was rejected for “poor lighting.” 

Memory fails me and there are very few notes to pull from.  I’m pretty sure this was a Saturday excursion.  We were passing through many small towns and villages.  Each was involved in Labor Day Weekend activities.  We saw many signs advertising these local activities and even stopped for what we thought was a Volunteer Fire Department fund raiser – a lobster stew lunch.  We were a day early.  We pulled into the advertised parking lot but only found a crowd of people preparing the lobster.  The lobster stew and chowder lunch was scheduled for the next day.  The crew jokingly asked if we would like to help crack, or shuck, or whatever you call taking a lobster out of its shell.  We declined.  I later told Jane, “Hey, we screwed up!  Do you realize that they were eating nearly as much lobster as they were throwing into the pots?  We could be eating FREE lobster.” 

I remember now, the next day was Saturday, the 5th of September.  Camden was hosting a huge celebration, centered around the Windjammer Fleet.  We made a quick dash up Mount Battie (Camden Hills State Park) to look down at the crowded town of Camden.  We decided to chance it anyway.  We managed to find a parking spot in this small town where parking spaces are at a premium, getting  a kick out of this No Parking sign on a church wall near where we finally found a spot to park. 

Seeing these beautiful relics of our past made us anxious to begin our voyage on the Stephen Taber, which was disappointingly not one of the old wooden schooners in the Camden Harbor for the festival.  Access to the ships in the harbor was surprisingly simple.  I got a few pictures before we made our way to the food.  Several of the local restaurants were participating in the Camden Chowder Challenge.  They were offering a tray filled with a cup of chowder from each restaurant.  The idea was to mark the accompanying form rating the chowders from your favorite to least favorite. 

We had fun at the festival but needed to run a few errands before boarding our schooner.  We spent the rest of that Saturday doing the mundane things that have to be done … laundry, for instance.  Since we would be checking out of the motel the following morning, we decided to get things done and sort what would be stored in the car from what little we could get by with taking on board the Stephen Taber.  

We were out of the motel early.  Boarding was at 4 o’clock and we had a few sites to investigate before boarding the ship.  There was a motorcycle and antique aviation exhibit at the Owls Head Transportation Museum.  I must say that if you travel this area of Maine, you will have plenty of entertainment.  I don’t know who is responsible but they do a great job of scheduling events and activities for tourists … and the residents.

We drove back to Owls Head to check out the Motorcycle and Aviation Show at the Transportation Museum in Owls Head.  What I had expected to be a dull day turned into a really fun adventure. I especially enjoyed the antique aircraft. And, I got some great pictures of old cars and motorcycles.  I took a few video clips of the antique aircraft in flight.  I will save those for another time.

This old car is a 1907 Renault Vanderbilt Racer.  It is just one example of an enormous collection of cars, motorcycles, bicycles, wagons, trains, airplanes, etc.  And, the collection is not static.  There are permanent exhibits as well as temporary displays offered by proud supporters of the facility.

We enjoyed the day but were constantly checking the time, anxious for four o’clock and boarding the subject and highlight of our East Coast Adventure – the historic sailing vessel, Stephen Tabor.  We spent the night aboard her with departure scheduled for ten the following morning.  The excitement is just beginning.

l8r

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The trail from Maryland through New Jersey and New York was not a pleasant experience.  My frustration distracted me to the point that I forgot about taking pictures.  Rather than describe that agonizing portion of the adventure, we will skip ahead to better times.

As we left the city, I started to relax.  I think that was the effect of a beautiful, tree-lined parkway between the city and Connecticut.  Rather than have Jane try guiding us through that maze of big city streets with a map, we entered our destination into the GPS.  Not having the route marked on a map makes it difficult to recall the names of the routes we took.  But, looking back I can see that we were on Hutchinson River Parkway, Cross County Parkway, and Merritt Parkway.  I was surprised at how calming the drive was.  The worst was behind us.

The drive through Connecticut was fascinating.  It occurred to me that Connecticut is a retreat for New York’s wealthy.   We were only passing through, though we did spend a night in a Days Inn in Berlin.  The motel rate was very reasonable and it was After making a decision to see Vermont, we were anxious to start the tour.

Jane hadn’t organized this part of the adventure, so it was a bit disorganized.  We passed quickly through Massachusetts and stopped at the Vermont Tourist Information Center as we crossed the border.  Covered bridges was my first thought; covered bridges and “The Green Mountain Boys” of the Revolutionary War.  I like history and the old stuff.  Vermont is filled with both.

Did you know that Vermont was not one of the original 13 states?  I was shocked.  It seems there was a struggle between New Hampshire and New York for the property known as Vermont.  Great Britain’s award of the Vermont territory to New York led to Ethan Allen’s organization of a militia known as the Green Mountain Boys.  All the details are readily available on the internet.  I just found this bit of trivia too interesting to let pass.  Vermont became the 14th state in 1791.

We gathered brochures and information, leaving the interstate at Brattleboro in search of our first covered bridge.  We headed west on State Highway 9, the Molly Stark Trail.  This Scenic Byway is a main east-west route in southern Vermont; a historic trail followed by General John Stark on his way from New Hampshire to the Battle of Bennington during the Revolutionary War. 

Our first covered bridge was on the outer edge of Brattleboro.  I was disappointed.  I guess I had expected to find covered bridges isolated in rural areas.  This one was right on the Molly Stark Trail and surrounded by bright orange construction tape.  Unplanned surprises aren’t always happy happenings.

But there was a beautiful colonial home right across the road.  It got more of my attention than the bridge.  As a matter of fact, Vermont abounds with beautiful old homes and Americana. The flowers and gardens had Jane raving.  Around every curve, we were seeing more and more to like about Vermont.  It is so clean and pristine. And, there are no billboards.  Even the directional signs are minimal.  We found several more covered bridges that day but kept getting lost.  That’s not always a bad thing.  We saw and did things that otherwise we may have missed.  It wasn’t until I was preparing for this article that I realized how much we had missed.  Fail to plan; plan to fail. 

That brings me to a photography point that I would like to share.  Good pictures seldom “just happen.”  Like most anything else in life, there is that distressing element called organization.  I should have done a little more research on Vermont in general and covered bridges in particular.  My pictures sucked; and got rejected by my agencies.  You don’t just walk up and snap a picture.  That’s a “snapshot.”  It was obvious even to me.  I was not surprised by the rejection.

Covered bridges are so photogenic (and nostalgic) but they are so “over-photographed.”  Anything unique would require some imagination.  No thought was given to lighting or being there when it was best.  Concept is important.   What are you trying to convey?  Why are you taking this picture?  I had not really given it any thought.  I believe the thinking and planning is what separates travel photography and travel pictures. 

The only images I salvaged from that first bridge was a detail image of the lattice-work architecture and a snapshot of Jane on the bridge. 

Vermont had not been a part of the original plan.  We were only there because we had some time to kill before arriving for our schooner cruise in Maine, which Jane had planned.  She had left organizing the Vermont and New Hampshire tours to me.  The moral of this story is “be organized or have an organized person on your team.” 

Continuing on the Molly Stark Trail, we wandered through the Green Mountains and the Green Mountain National Forest.  We discovered Vermont Scenic Highway 100 and loosely followed it, heading northward toward Rutland.  We stopped for information about local points of interest and a brief tour of a Maple Syrup Museum.   We enjoyed the small, scenic villages as well as the beautiful green countryside. 

Traveling in New England is deceptive.  We are accustomed to travel in Texas and the Southwest.    Distance on New England travel maps is a much different scale, making it possible to see a lot more in a day.  We were tired upon our arrival at a motel in Rutland but surprised at how much we had seen.

The next day was more bridges.   Again, no specific plan.  Jane was directing me to the nearby bridges while I was thinking of Fort Ticonderoga, Lake Champlain, and the ski resorts in Stowe.  Somehow, we stumbled across the Morgan horse farm in Middlebury.  We arrived just a short while before the next guided tour.  We bought tickets for the  tour and wandered aimlessly, admiring the horses.  The history of the Morgan horse, the University of Vermont’s involvement, and seeing these beautiful animals make the detour well worth the time.  I love horses.  I would like to return and spend more time watching the students in the apprentice program train the horses.  

We left the Morgan Horse Farm and worked our way back to the Scenic Route 100, headed north.  I can’t remember why but we turned away from Lake Champlain and the historic area around Fort Ticonderoga.  For whatever reason, we worked our way to Montpelier.  From there, we took the shortcut across the mountains to Interstate 91.  We managed to get lost and plugged a motel address in Lyndonville into the GPS as our destination.  The GPS seemed to know where we were.  We didn’t.   It was rather exciting; and a little scary.  It was a very narrow, hilly, rough road.  The scenery was fantastic but I would not recommend this rural route for the average, four-passenger vehicle. 

The following day started our moose adventures.  I say started because the next several weeks we were either hunting moose, asking locals about moose or talking about places to try next.  The start was in the Northeastern part of Vermont know as the Northeast Kingdom, or, maybe it is North East Kingdom?  It is often referred to as NEK. 

We stopped in Island Pond, where we had been told moose were so plentiful that locals would not drive at night.  (With their long legs and massive size, car collisions with moose are much more dangerous than hitting a deer … or a bear.)  Island Pond is a resort located in the quaint town of Berlin.  It is surrounded by camp grounds and offers many seasonal outdoor activities.  Read more about it here. 

We stopped in the Island Pond Library and visited with the librarian who was very informative and helped us layout a tentative route to view moose.  From there, our circuitous route took us along State Route 105, through Silvio O. Conte National Fish and Wildlife Refuge Nulhegan Basin, up Route 102 (River Road) to the tiny town of Canaan, along the Canadian border to The Kingdom State Forest.  

We had seen a lot of moose habitat and signs of their presence but not a single moose.  A ranger at the wildlife refuge had given us several pointers on when and where to spot a moose.  We stayed excited along the entire drive and expected a sighting at nearly every bend.  We saw lots of bogs and moose wallows but no moose.   Highway construction deterred us as we made our way across the northern most parts of Vermont.  We gave up and turned south and west, deciding to head for Maine a few days early.

We crossed the Connecticut River into New Hampshire at Colebrook.  We stopped to picnic in a city park dedicated to Civil War heroes.  Checking our map, we found that we were on “Mohawk Road” and had just crossed the Daniel Webster Highway (US Route 3).  Civil War, the Revolutionary War, Daniel Webster, Mohawk and Iroquois culture; the place absolutely reeks of history. 

At this northern point, it is a short drive across New Hampshire.  We split from Route 26 and headed north on Route 16 around Umbagog Lake, crossing into Maine.  I don’t remember that we went through a town or village; we were just there, driving through areas that looked to be very sparsely populated.  After the fact, I figured that is a major logging area.  Moose Crossing warnings were every few miles.  I was a little surprised at how such an old area of the US was still so isolated.  We would drive miles seldom seeing another car and not much in the way of civilization. 

We made our way into Rangeley, a popular tourist destination on Rangeley Lake.  Worth noting is that it is the hometown of actor Kurt Russell.  And, a sign there lets you know that it is the halfway point between the Equator and the North Pole. 

It was mid-afternoon and we had done a lot of sightseeing.  We had planned to travel deeper into the Maine Moose Country.  We had a dilemma.   It was too early to stop but we were afraid to continue further into the boonies.  We had no plans for the evening.  Not know what lay ahead, we diverted south on Route 4 and settled for a motel in Farmington. 

After checking in, Jane pointed to an interesting photograph on the wall.  It was a moose.  I didn’t understand at first.  Then she pointed out that the picture was taken in the Motel Parking Lot!!! 

Tomorrow, we are heading for the coast.  We will hunt for lighthouses. 

l8r

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There was very little in the way of new or picturesque scenery until we crossed into Virginia.  I don’t intend to belittle any area of our country but we had seen most of this area many times and we were mostly restricted to interstate highways.  I did venture to a county park to shoot a buffalo herd during our stay in Memphis.  My original intent had been to add to my Canada Goose collection from the same park.  Enthusiasm just wasn’t there.  That is evident in this lackadaisical image of the buffalo.  Not a problem.  We visit Jane’s mother in Memphis fairly often.  The buffalo and the geese are always there.

Anyway, we left Bristol, Virginia after spending the night and decided to take the back roads – the Blue Ridge Parkway.  We needed to kill some time so that our arrival time would coincide with our daughter’s work schedule.  That was a good decision.  It was a relaxing drive and we came across the Mabry Grist Mill.  I love the old,  historical sites and this old mill was especially picturesque.  It was mid-day light but intermittent showers and partly cloudy skies softened the shadows.  The light was so nice that I got a little carried away and spent nearly two hours at the site. 

The detour also brought us in touch with the Appalachian Trail.  I was curious at the time and became fascinated with the Appalachians and the Appalachian Trail as we journeyed northward.  I knew of the trail but did not really know much about the trail.  It is more than 2,000 mile foot-journey along the backbone of American History, running from Georgia to northern Maine.  I won’t go into detail here but will offer this link for the more curious.

I had mentioned in the opening article of this series that I would be using a point-and-shoot camera for much of our trip.  I had the Sony DSC-W170 at the old mill but mostly used my Nikon mounted on a tripod.  I did, however, keep the Sony beside me in the car.  It is great for those times when you just pull off the side of the road for a quickie. 

After spending so much time at the mill site, we needed to get back to the interstate. I had a few quickie opportunities along the way.  This shot of a farm in those rolling hills is with the Sony.  It handled the light contrast very well and the grain (digital noise) is tight and barely noticeable.  The image was accepted by my stock site and has already made sales.  Though the sky looks washed out, a closer look will show that individual clouds are defined. 

There isn’t a lot that can be done as far as manual settings.  The menu does allow exposure compensation.  Mostly, I used the “Program” setting.  That setting allows me more selectivity in the Menu of adjustments.  In this case, I accepted the internal meter setting. 

We called before getting to our daughter’s place.  Disaster!!!  Her apartment had flooded and management had moved her to a hotel until it could be repaired.  That changed our plans.  Rather than hang around the DC area and watch her suffer, we decided to spend a night at the hotel, have breakfast together and arrive a bit earlier in New England.  We spent the next day cursing our way thru New Jersey and New York,

That part of the adventure will come in the next installment.  Stay tuned.

l8r

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My wife and I have just returned from an adventure that was 50 years in the making – our 50th Anniversary Tour.  My wife is the planner and organizer.  I’m a typical tourist.  When she suggested a cruise for our anniversary, I thought, “Great idea.  She gets to relax and enjoy life without cooking and keeping house.  I get to take pictures.”

It wasn’t exactly that way.  The cruise she was suggesting was on a 137 year-old wooden ship with few to no modern conveniences.  She had booked passage on an historical old schooner that would transport us to and through the islands off the coast of Maine, as well as some of the most scenic ports ever to be visited. 

That was just the beginning.  Our anniversary celebration lasted seven weeks with historic and cultural excursions through twelve states, mountains, oceans, coastlines, safe harbors, farmlands and a few irritatingly large cities,  Much of it was strictly spur-of-the-moment decisions.  Only the cruise and a leased cottage near Acadia National Park were pre-planned.

I can’t effectively cover the entire adventure in one post.  It would be much too long and, for some, bore you to tears.  I’ll break it into sections to please myself and give any readers the opportunity to pick and choose what to read and when.  Chronological order may seem the best approach.  But, remember, my wife is the organized one. 

As stated, this will be approached from a photographer’s point of view.  i will drop a few tips or provide references throughout.  I’ll mention right here that this article is especially relevant for photographers using “point-and-shoot” cameras.  A lot of what I have submitted to my stock agencies was shot with a Sony Cyber Shot, DSC-W170, 10.1 Mega Pixel camera that I carried around in my pocket. 

I bought this camera shortly before leaving for the cruise because I was afraid that the salt water would ruin my “Professional” equipment.  Man, did this baby perform.  My wife used the camera for the above picture of me in a canoe.   I love it.

Since our grandson spends summers with us, his return to the DC area was incorporated into our plans.  We decided that driving would provide the best opportunity to enjoy the history and culture of our nation’s birthplace, the East Coast and especially New England.  Besides, Dillon is seventeen.  He helped my drive through Texas, Arkansas, Tennessee and Virginia.  Parts of that section will be included in our adventure.

We will relax along the Blue Ridge Parkway; curse frantically along New Jersey and New York’s toll roads; recover along a calming, tree-covered Connecticut trail; see hardly any of Massachusetts; gape, open-mouthed at the beauty and cleanliness of our greenest state, Vermont. 

Hunting a moose will bring us into Maine a few days before our scheduled windjammer departure from Rockland, Maine.  The early arrival will allow us time to thrill at the plethora of lighthouses along our coastal shores, learn more about lobster men and the rugged life of fishing and fishermen;  step back in time as ancient airplanes and historic vehicles are on display and demonstrate their capabilities at the Owls Head Transportation Museum. 

We will document our six days of sailing on a strictly authentic schooner as we are offered the opportunity to learn sailing as hands-on crewmembers of this beautiful relic from our coastal history.  Our ship will follow no particular course as we let the wind lead us to the best harbor for the evening, or the most interesting of the thousands of islands along Maine’s coast. 

We will view much of Acadia National Park from the deck of our schooner and spend time ashore at our own lobster boil; gawk at the “cottages” of several of America’s wealthiest citizens and shop in quaint shops of Stonington, Maine on the ever popular Deer Isle.

We will spend another week in a small fishing cottage in Stonington, using that as headquarters as we explore Acadia National Park and eat lobster almost every day.  Jane will take in the local farmers market and we will see a movie in the hundred year old Stonington Opera House.

This already has gotten too long.  I will add pictures and anecdotes as we work our way around Moosehead Lake, the Catskills, Pennsylvania’s Amish Area and on to the Great Smoky Mountains National Park.  I promise something for everyone and a generous selection of images and photography techniques.  Please stay tuned for more on our great adventure.

l8r

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Wildflower season in Texas is waning.  The lack of rain left the bluebonnet crop lacking.  But the red flowers are brilliant.  The flowers seem to come in phases.  Bluebonnets and yucca lead the way.  Following the blue season is the red season; indian blanket, indian paint brush, red poppies and some stuff I can’t name.  Yellow follows the red season; daisies, sunflower, etc.

In a good season, photographers line the highways and tourism brings a smile to the faces of local business people.  Finding just the right (not already occupied) spot is a task.  There is a place, however, for photographers to get an entire season of wildflower photographs in one day.  The Wildseed Farms is on US290,  seven miles east of Fredericksburg.  Not only can you have free access to their gardens, you can buy seeds and plants for your own garden.  They also offer very artistic planters, pots, bird baths, water structures and decorative designs.

My wife has a new car.  We decided to take it for an old-fashioned Sunday drive.  She had never been to the Wildseed Farm and had always wanted to see the place … and shop.  She is really into gardening.  She absolutely loved it.  We spent several hours there; me taking pictures and her ooohing and ahhhhing, admiring the flowers and handling the trinkets.  She wanted something for her mother.  (Mother’s Day, you know)  She didn’t find that perfect gift but did buy several packages of seeds for our own gardens.

There are 200 acres of wild flowers in  various stages of development.  The shopping areas are central; you go through the shops to get to the flower trails.  There is no charge and it seems the flower gardens are laid out with photographers in mind.  Distractions and busy backgrounds are minimal.

We stopped in Fredericksburg for our Sunday drive lunch but could just as well have visited the Wildflower Farms’ Brewbonned Biergarden.  They serve some excellent sandwiches and offer a beautiful outdoor setting for enjoying your lunch and beverage.

There also is a live butterfly exhibit.  We will try it on our next visit.  There is a small fee.  It was four dollars  for seniors.  I can’t recall the other prices.  You can gather much more information at their website, including phone numbers and the hours.  The website is at:

http://www.wildseedfarms.com/

Maybe we can schedule this as a Photography Club outing.  I will propose the idea tonight at our monthly meeting.

l8r

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Bad Brad Lackey’s Vintage-AM International Motocross Competition brought together a group of Motocross Legends to thrill even the most stoic vintage fan. And they were not there just to sign autographs and pose for pictures. These guys can ride. Those competitive juices don’t die easy.

Lackey recruited four European veterans of the old Inter-AM/Trans-AM days to compete against an American team with similar credentials. Motorcycle Hall of Fame inductee Lars Larsson of Sweden, Zdenek Velky from Czechoslovakia, Germany’s Herbert Schmitz, and 1979 World Champion Graham Noyce of Great Britain came to the US for two rounds of racing against the United States Inter-AM and Trans-AM veterans Gary Jones, Chuck Sun, Danny LaPorte and Bill Silverthorn.

The group gathered at Diamond Don Rainey’s AHRMA Riverport National in Jefferson, Texas on April 4^th and 5^th for the second round of the international competition. During the AHRMA Nationals the Legends gathered in a single pit area and graciously signed autographs, posed for pictures and spent hours bench racing with fans.

Ed. Note:  Roll cursor over image to read caption

Their vintage bikes were a collector’s dream. Gary Jones was competing on a Honda RC450; Zdenek Velky would ride nothing but a CZ, of course. Herbert Schmitz was on a monster 490 Maico. It was offered for sale after the race. Graham Noyce, 500cc World Champion in 1979, stepped down to a 250 Honda for this race. Danny LaPorte chose a 250 Suzuki. Bill Silverthorn was on an RM400 Suzuki; Chuck Sun had a sweet-looking 250 Maico that he was considering buying from its owner. Lars Larsson was on a classic yellow and black Yamaha.

Gary Jones had the hole shot and led for several laps before Chuck Sun moved to the lead. Gary had raced an earlier AHRMA race and forgot to refuel.  Herbert Schmitz started dead last but moved up to second at the midway point leading Danny LaPorte in third place. The three pulled away with LaPorte getting past Schmitz near the end. That led to some trash talk with Schmitz claiming that LaPorte would never have passed him if he had known he was there.

Gary Jones ran out of gas for eighth place but with Bill Silverthorn finishing in fourth, Team USA dominated the first moto. Graham Noyce was fifth, Zdenek Velky sixth, and Lars Larsson seventh.

Herbert Schmitz strongly declared that he would win the next moto of the two-day event. He did. The 62  year-old German grabbed the holeshot and only once had anyone even get close.  Chuck Sun got alongside Schmitz in a sweeping left-hander but was unable to complete the pass. Schmitz opened a huge lead; riding so smooth and gracefully that it could have been put to music. He and that Maico were a beautiful thing to watch.

But, according to the US Team, there were extenuating circumstances. The wise old German had tried to sabotage the Americans.

Chuck Sun had this explanation for not completing the pass: “As you know the U.S. had a good lead going into the final moto of the 4 moto series that began at Sand Hill CA.  That did not take away my desire to win however!  Herbie was very determined and kept pouring wine for everyone the night before.  Herbs holeshot the 2nd moto and I was 4th behind Jones and Noycey.  By the end of the lap I was on Herbert wringing out the 250 Maico of Steve Marpes (Ohlins factory rep).  Herbs was riding quite well and the 250 began to make noises, so I backed down to make sure of a finish. (I hate to DNF)  LaPorte got by as well, but was very gracious to wait by the finish line to let me bye.  So I won the individual overall for the Vintage-AM series.  Now Steve has to rebuild the Maico as there is no compression!  Thanks Steve! “

EDITOR’S NOTE: Is that not ironic? I wonder if any of this reminded Danny LaPorte of; “Let Broc Bye.”

Danny LaPorte passed Chuck Sun and closed the gap on Schmitz but ran out of time before coming to the checkered flag.  It looked like Schmitz would take the overall with 3-1 finishes to Sun’s 1-3. But, according to a note from Brad Lackey, “I didn’t see it but I was told that Danny let Chuck by right before the checkered flag so that Chuck would get the over all instead of Schmitz…a brilliant move by the team manager!”

Sun’s 1-2 finishes were good for the overall with Schmitz’ 3-1 taking second. Danny LaPorte was 2-3 for third and the USA claimed the overall based on strong finishes by Bill Silverthorn and Gary Jones. The Team USA victory was sweet revenge for those Inter-AM massacres of the distant past. Through bloodshot eyes, the US Team basked in their glory.

Winning is a way of life for these legends but winning was a little less important to the fans. Just seeing those guys ride again was well worth the price of admission. And, with the Vintage AM being run in conjunction with two days of AHRMA Vintage Nationals in Observed Trials, Cross Country, Vintage and Post-Vintage Motocross it was an action-filled weekend of reminiscing and remembering.

Brad Lackey was unable or not ready to discuss the future of Vintage-AM. It is an expensive undertaking and he needs sponsor support to carry on. You can offer encouraging words or sponsorship support by contacting Brad at his web site … http://www.bradlackey.com/ Let the world know, “We love our legends.”

The Results:

Finish Moto 1    Moto 2    Name

1        1            2                Sun

2        3            1                Schmitz

3        2            3                LaPorte

4        5            5                Noyce

5        4            6                Silverthorn

6        8            4                Gary Jones

7        6            7                Velkey

8        7            8                Larson

l8r

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AHRMA is the American Historical Racing Motorcycle Association. My first AHRMA experience was in April 2006, at Diamond Don Rainey’s Riverport National in Jefferson, Texas.  These races are great for photographers and for meeting some of the legends of motocross. There is no restricted pit area. It is a family atmosphere with historic motorcycles and legendary riders readily available for pictures and nostalgic bench racing sessions.  I spent nearly an hour with Jim Pomeroy, helping him sell t-shirts and reminiscing. That’s his Bultaco in the foreground of the picture.

I had credentials for the race, doing a feature for Cycle News on Don Rainey’s replica of the bike that Brad Lackey rode to the World Championship. But the credentials were probably not necessary for the access I had. A ticket gets you just about anywhere you could want to be. And, it is surprising how accessible and friendly these legends are.

The entrance road crosses the track and circles around and through the pit area and camper sites. It is much like spending a weekend camped at any other motocross track. Everyone is friendly and motorcycles are the common interest … motorcycles and racing.  

I found Brad Lackey and his crew working out a jetting problem on the CZ that he would be riding in the Vintage Motocross event. Lackey didn’t recognize me but it had been nearly twenty-five years since our last encounter – his World Championship win.  He didn’t look the same either.  

After getting reacquainted with Lackey, I noticed a giant standing next to a very nice motor home. It was all 7’4” of Rik Smits, former NBA basketball star with the Indiana Pacers. I used my Cycle News connection to chat a bit and get a few pictures. Rik is a collector of vintage motocross bikes and does quite well at the races. The picture to the right is Smits making a 400cc Maico look like a minibike. I wonder how he gets that size 20 boot between the peg and shift lever?

Rik Smits Maico

There is little need for long lenses or expensive equipment at AHRMA events. A point and shoot will do in most cases. Photographing the action, however, is another story. The shutter lag on any digital camera other than a DSLR makes point and shoots impractical (but not impossible) for pictures of the races. My 18~135 Nikon kit lens is the most used of my lenses. I take the 300mm f4 for special effects – soft backgrounds, but it is really bulky and gets very little use. Another option would be the 70~200 f2.8. Again, that is a heavy choice and a bit pricey for non-professional use. I guess the best advice would be, “use what you got.”  

Continuing to circle the road, I found new thrills at each pit area. There were past heroes and motorcycle legends like Jeff Smith, two-time world champion; Tommy Benolkin and his stable of Pentons; and Tammy Rice, a legend of women’s motocross.

It was a profitable weekend of nostalgia and reminiscence. I wrote two race reports (vintage nationals and post-vintage nationals) and a feature article on the Brad Lackey replica, all published by Cycle News. Even without the publication, I treasure the images and memories I brought home from that event.

A Youthful Graham Noyce

I’ll be returning to Jefferson for the Diamond Don Riverport National in April. I don’t have an assignment (yet) but this event offers too much to miss. In addition to the usual AHRMA Nationals in Vintage Motocross, Post-Vintage Motocross, Observed Trials and Cross Country races, former World Champion Brad Lackey is promoting the Vintage-AM. The Vintage-AM is takeoff on the old Inter-AM and Trans-AMA races from the ‘70s and ‘80s. Those were the days when spectators would flock to the races to watch those amazing European motocrossers show America’s best how it was really done.

In the Vintage-AM, Lackey will lead a team of Americans consisting of legends Danny LaPorte, Chuck Sun, and Gary Jones going up against such notable Europeans as Graham Noyce, Zdenek Velky and Lars Larsson. The portrait is Graham Noyce a long, long time ago. They will be riding the vintage iron of the day … CZ, Maico, Bultaco, Husqvarna – maybe a Honda or Suzuki.  

More information is available at:
http://www.diamonddon.com/

l8r

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The start of a motocross race is one of the most exciting events in all of sports. It will often be a featured photograph in any publication’s coverage of the race. The image to the left is from the start of the second moto of the Freestone National of the AMA/Toyota Motocross Lites National Championship Series in Wortham, Texas on June 8, 2008. Ryan Sypes (57) has just grabbed the holeshot ahead of Austin Stroupe (51) and Brett Metcalfe (123) and thirty-seven other racers. But the starting referenced in the title of this article is not about the start of a motocross race.  This article is about what to do after you have perfected your skills.  To read more about photographing a race, read this article –  or for action photography in general, check the Link to “Action Photography Tutorial.”

I gave up on being a famous photojournalist after returning from Europe in the early 80s. Races were just too far apart and time off from the day job became unmanageable. It wasn’t until I bought a dirt bike for my grandson that my love for racing resurfaced.

My grandson and I began to share the MX magazines and talk about Papa’s days as a photojournalist. I replaced the old film cameras with digital and started to photograph my grandson and his riding buddies. Soon the desire was at fever pitch. I’m retired. Time is the least of my problems. “Why not,” I thought. I emailed some of the old contacts and soon was back in business. I wasn’t interested in a full-time job but did feel a great rush when I got an assignment to cover an AHRMA (vintage motocross) National in Jefferson, Texas. Just as with my first article, Brad Lackey was my subject.  Lackey is second from left in the photo to the right.  The article was about this replica of the bike he rode to the World Championship in 1982.

If you are interested in a place to start, I would recommend Cycle News. They publish a lot of local events in their Regional Events Section. I contacted Paul Carruthers and David Holther for their approval before posting this article. If you are willing to work for practically nothing, contact David Holther, Regional Events Editor at Cycle News, and request a copy of their Contributor Guide. David’s email address is:
david@cyclenews.com

This is not an automatic. You have to have some writing skills and snapshots of your friend on a bike won’t make the grade. If you want to be accepted at a professional level, you must play the part. I had references and an “old” resume to offer. You may need to cover a few races on your own, submitting an article, results and a picture for consideration. Having an article published does not mean instant acceptance but you can start thinking about and planning for your move toward the front pages; maybe a two-page feature. 

The most difficult part (for me) was formatting the results in accordance with the contributor guide. You will need cooperation of the race organizer or track owner. Before the race starts, you will need a printed list of all the entrants and their race numbers. It would also help if any sponsors were included on the list. After the race, you will need a printout of the results. Cycle News may accept the results from the race without an article but will not accept your article and photo without the results.

You will seldom see more than one of your photographs published with a Regional Events article. Your article should be short and specific, normally no more than 500 words. That is not enough space to cover every race of an amateur event. You will have to be selective. As for pictures, a good rule of thumb is: One rider is riding, two riders is racing, three or more is a race. I believe the guidelines will recommend including more than one rider in your photographs. The photo to the left is the start of an amateur event at a local Texas track. Notice that it is just as exciting as start of the professional race at the top of this article.

Putting these articles together is hard work. It is a slow and tedious process and you will ALWAYS find a discouraging problem. You are also working to a deadline. David Holther will advise you that the earlier he receives an article the more likely it will be published. As with anything else, completing the process a few times and getting some experience (and confidence) makes it seem simpler. And, you are building a resume.

As you put your article together, you may think of offering it to your local newspaper. I seldom see motocross or motorcycle racing in the local papers. But, that is probably because they do not have the staff to cover the event. Give them a call. What do you have to lose? Your track owners and race organizers would certainly appreciate the publicity. It could make you a very welcome sight at their tracks and events.

I hope you find some inspiration and helpful information in this article. I will publish more as I think of it but need to get back to my first love in future articles … The Legends of Motorcycling.

l8r

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Sources. Doesn’t that ring of intrigue, mystery? All those journalist quoting “reliable sources.” Or, “anonymous source.” Reporters being jailed for contempt of court. I don’t know how it works in today’s age of information. The Internet certainly opened a free flow of information. Still, knowledge is power, especially for people who make their living spreading the word.

It may not seem as important for a photographer but, as I stated earlier, writing or telling the story is the key to selling pictures. It is important to know your subject and understand all that it involves. It isn’t necessarily about the “scoop.” It is really about presenting the truth objectively. That requires knowledge of your subject.

I didn’t set out to develop sources. As a matter of fact, it happened quite serendipitously. Sources found me.

I don’t have the personality expected of a journalist. I’m timid. I avoid starting conversations and am very hesitant about pointing a camera into someone’s face. I gravitated to people I knew at the races in Europe; Brad Lackey, Mike Guerra, Danny LaPorte. I would hang around their pit area; just passing time and watching the mechanics prep the bikes. The riders were usually indisposed – resting and avoiding disconcerting conversation with fans and press. I gradually got to know the mechanics. They were busy too, but always acknowledged my presence. We soon began to talk. A certain amount of trust developed.

Voila! I had sources. I don’t mean “deep throat” or anything like that but the more we talked the more I learned. And, the more I did not write about what they said the more they said.  

The key is trust. If you are going to tell the world what a source has told you – tell him. If he asks you to not report something, you have to honor that trust. The trust also helped me later.  People started to offer information or help.  I was surprised at a race when Brad Lackey suggested that I position myself at a certain place for a great picture.  And when Jim Gibson inked a deal with Yamaha to race the FIM 125cc Motocross World Championship, I got my scoop.

Gibson was on the USA Motocross and Trophee des Nations team in 1982. I covered those races and enjoyed getting to know the team. While there Jim Gibson agreed to a deal with Yamaha. A friend (source) suggested that I ask Jim if he would be racing in Europe in 1983. I was shocked but made the opportunity to quietly ask Gibson the question. He was probably as shocked by my question as I had been by my source. Gibson confirmed the deal. We discussed his plans in whispers and I had a scoop. To this day, I am proud of that story.

I broke the story in the Stars & Stripes. My mentor, Randy Barnett, was almost as proud of me as I was of myself. Of course, the news made its way around the motocross circles in Europe. That caused a stir. Other photojournalist couldn’t believe it. Henny Ray Abrams, current contributor to Cycle News, and I had hung together in Europe. Henny Ray was a UPI photographer at the time, submitting his cycle stuff to Cycle News. He seemed to doubt the news and was curious about my source. I never told him. I can reveal now that it was a mechanic. The story finally broke in Motorcyclist Magazine as a profile on Jim Gibson and his tuner, Super Wrench Bill Buchka.

I will end another article with emphasis on TRUST. You have to honor a trust and be true to your word. Sometimes it is hard to keep your mouth shut. 

l8r

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