We’re here.  The rain followed us.  Actually, it made nice light on beautiful scenery as we kept running into and out of rain showers.  The showers were snow above six thousand feet.  The mountains, when they peeked out of the clouds, were beautiful.

As we were dumping holding takes at the Saint Mary Lake Campground dump station, a volunteer ranger gave us two valuable tips: take Montana Highway 464 to Browning and there are fuel and shopping facilities west of the West Glacier entrance.  I found a Jiffy Lube in Columbia Falls, changed oil, filled up with diesel, refilled a propane tank and Jane replenished the food supply.  That stop did a job on Jane’s budget. 

The Jiffy Lube had a free Wi-Fi connection.  I was able to do a quick email check and see end-of-month Stock Agency results for my images.   We did well in August.  That should please the Finance Minister. 

We were setup long before sundown. I was able to get some afternoon images of Lake McDonald.  It is now on my list of Most Beautiful Places I Have Seen.  The lodge and cabins take up most of the lakefront in the Visitor Center area.  But, there are also Outdoor Activity offerings, touring information and shopping.  And visitors from the campsites can walk the shoreline.  I did.

I was able to set up a tripod and take the three exposures used here to process this HDR image with Photomatix and edit in my Photoshop Elements.  This was mid-afternoon light but the clouds filtering the light softened shadows. It is a good first impression of West Glacier National Park. 

We retired to the RV early, planning an early morning shoot and excursions to yet-to-be-determined places.

NEXT DAY

We slept in.  It was cold and the covers and warm bed were just too good to vacate.  We nearly missed the morning “generator hours.”  The park (most do) has specified hours for running generators.  We need that generator time to charge the RV battery and for running microwave and my computer. 

There are three two-hour generator periods during the day, breakfast, lunch and dinner.  Two three-hour periods would make more sense.  It is easier to plan around two mandatory returns to the camper.  The evening hours should be later, as well.  Five to Seven is right in the middle of evening light – and too early for dinner.

The late start was probably a good thing: we both were tired and it gave Jane a chance to throw together a fabulous breakfast.  She sliced an apple very thin, basted it with butter and sugar and sautéed it in butter before pouring the pancake batter over it.  Dang!  That woman can cook. 

We ventured off on a back roads trail – the inner route to Polebridge.  Much of it went through landscape that still showed deep scarring from forest fires.  I know that we tend to photograph landscapes the way we want them to be, but there is a lot of damage done by forest fires.  It is, however, a blessing in disguise.  Over time, the burned out woodlands return with space for new growth and even more grazing and feeding for the wildlife. 

We visited Fish Creek Campground and had a picnic lunch overlooking Lake McDonald.  We watched a lady learning to fly fish and a couple launching kayaks for an afternoon paddle on the lake.  

Getting bored with that we returned to West Glacier and started up the Going to the Sun Highway.  We had already made the drive from East Glacier to Logan Pass.  The view from West Glacier to Logan Pass is a totally different environment.  Jane was fascinated with the Greenness. The forest were so lush and there was a thick bed of moss on the forest floor.

McDonald Creek comes down from the hills alongside the highway.  There are numerous beautiful waterfalls with parking pullouts at each site.  Waterfalls are another of Jane’s favorite sites.  I enjoyed them too but didn’t see the need to stop at EVERY one. 

We had not intended to drive all the way to Logan Pass but all the Ooooohing and Aaaaahing kept us pushing onward on very narrow roads, the last twelve miles of which were under construction.  Jane had accepted the daily driving chore.  I thought she would have a heart attack.  I drove back.  LOL

It was interesting to watch changes in vegetation and environs.  There was still green but much more rugged and missing the lush, mossy undergrowth.  Wildflowers abound on the upper part of the Going to the Sun Highway – mostly the mountain or alpine variety.  Jane did recognize several flowers but they seemed a bit different from the wildflowers in Texas.  Indian Paintbrush in the mountains is called Alpine Paintbrush. 

After climbing past the Loop Trail area there was a distinct difference.  We stopped at a place where I spotted this bunch of flowers with back lighting.  The only one I recognize is the golden rod.  I think the purple flower is call Fire Weed.

We skipped a lot of sites with late-day light on the return trip.  We had moseyed along at such a slow pace that we were losing generator time.  Jane had only 45 minutes of generator time to prepare a quick supper.  And, I barely got the new images uploaded to my file system before the “curfew.”

NEXT DAY – Saturday, September 3

We’re sitting in the trailer with the heater on.  Jane is reading and I am pushing the limits of my laptop’s battery.  The sun is up and shining bright but it was cold this morning.  We’ll make today’s exploration after the noon generator period.  I’ve be been out already but not successfully.

It was a cold disappointing morning.  I managed to roll out of the warm bed at 6:30.  It seems the sun takes longer to rise on this side of the park, probably because it has to climb over the mountains.  Anyway, I returned to a spot I had selected on yesterday’s excursion.  It was a mistake.  I was on the water (Lake McDonald) but the sun was stuck behind the mountains.  I’m guessing now that West Glacier is best photographed in evening light.  This is another HDR image, trying to save the shadows while emphasizing the light on the mountains and the levels of separation from front to back. 

I’m using two cameras for my images – my trusty old Nikon D80 and a Canon T2i (550D).  I’ve always worked with Nikon.  I added the Canon to the collection thinking I would get into the Video Production business.  It shoots High Definitions Video in addition to very good still images.  I’m practicing but not very good yet at video.  But, I am growing more and more fond of the Canon capabilities.  It is making the purchase of new lenses a much more difficult choice. 

We’ve decided to leave Glacier in the morning. We had a good afternoon of hiking and sightseeing.  We hiked back to Johns Lake and along McDonald Creek to the lower falls.  We may not have done everything but we’ve done enough.  Seven days in the area has us driving over already visited sites to reach unseen areas.  We drove to Logan Pass from both the East Side and the West Side.  I would liked to have some mountain reflections in Lake McDonald but it never got still enough.

We did get more nice waterfall pictures during the afternoon hike.  I was bored with waterfalls so processed this one using HDR to the max.  It takes on that garish look for which HDR is often associated but I enjoy the “painterly” effect.

All that hiking has worn me down.  I think I will put this chapter to bed.  It has gotten long enough anyway.  We plan to have all the modern conveniences at our next stop, internet, full hookups, cable TV, and Showers. I’ll add any additional thoughts when we get to wherever that may be.

l8r

 Email This Post    Print This Post

The Finance Minister is in a good mood.  She has been calculating and the budget is back on track.  Our expenses are averaging about $125 a day.  Camping fees are less than $12.  Getting to that point has taken several “No Shower Days,” and internet connections will have to wait until we leave the park.  I checked on connections in the commercial sector and they wanted $12 an hour.  No way of selling that to the Finance Minister. 

This will be our final night in Saint Mary Campground in East Glacier National Park.  We have been here since Sunday, August 28.  The weather has been great until last night.  It started raining and has rained all day.  We sometimes need a day to relax and just chill.  This has been one of those days.  I plan to connect the truck and trailer tonight for an early start tomorrow, (Thursday, September 1).  We’re heading for West Glacier National Park, Apgar Campground.

We drove over to Many Glaciers today to take showers.  For anyone planning a trip into this area, Many Glaciers Campground has much more to offer than Saint Mary Campground.    You have to pay but Many Glaciers does have showers.  And, a small camping store, restaurant, and spectacular scenery.  . It also has reasonable prices.  The picture on the right is part of the lodges on Swift Current Lake in the Many Glaciers area (big bucks).

Saint Mary (the town) has a “Super Market” that wants $6 for a half gallon of milk.  The Finance Minister nearly flipped over that one.  Needless to say, we left the “Super Market” without milk. 

I think the big draw for Saint Mary Campground is that it is right on the Highway to the Sun – the most popular GNP activity.  It also has easy access to Lake Saint Mary, a photography hotspot.  This picture is an early morning (before 7) shot of the Lake Saint Mary shoreline.

A Visitor Information Center is located at the entrance to the Lake Saint Mary area of the park.  Free Shuttle Bus service departs frequently from the Visitor Center, taking visitors to Logan Pass where they can change to a shuttle bus that services the west side of the park.  The shuttle bus makes frequent stops along the way allowing visitors to board or get off at popular sites.  The entire trip across the Going to the Sun Highway is about 50 miles—one way.  The shuttle bus can certainly save a few bucks.  I managed, however, to negotiate driving the truck.  The Finance Minister understands that I have very demanding tastes in just what is a photograph. 

We also took a driving tour to Two Medicine Campground.  There is a beautiful (expensive) hotel and lodges and an Amtrak Station at East Glacier National Park.  It is at the intersection of US2 and MT49. Many of the guests arrive by train and rent cars.  There is a Budget Rental Agency connected to the Lodge. 

Two Medicine Campground is a few miles from the intersection on Highway 49.  Montana 49 is a scenic drive between US89 and US2.  The scenery from 49 is breathtaking.  The Two Medicine area also has a camp store and camping.  There is a snack bar in the camp store.  We had lunch and ice cream from a table overlooking Two Medicines Lake and mountain reflections.

We would recommend either Many Glaciers or Two Medicine as a better place to spend a few days than here at Saint Mary Campground.  Don’t get me wrong.  They all are “must see” parts of America.  I’m just saying that the amenities are better at the other two.  I didn’t take the picture – probably should have.  When you se Glacier post cards, calendar pictures, or fine art images – this is probably the image you see.  Overdone! 

As an aside, I should mention for younger people looking for a great summer job, employees are imported primarily from Europe – I think.  We met students from Spain and Germany, as well as American students from Washington and Virginia.  I’m not sure if the jobs are only for college students.  It certainly seems worth inquiring.

Getting here from Spearfish SD was relatively uneventful.  We did have a scare (again) when the fuel gauge warned us that we were about out of diesel.  That kept us from visiting the Little Bighorn Battle Ground (their service station was out of diesel) and led to driving on past Great Falls before finding a campground – Conrad, Montana.  We had passed the Great Falls area campgrounds before coming to a service station.

Our first view of snow-capped Rocky Mountain Peaks was from Interstate 90 in Wyoming.  It was 11:40 in the morning at mile marker 106.   I shot this through the windshield at about 70 miles per hours, calling it “Rocky Mountains doing 70mph.” 

We followed I-90 through Sheridan and into Montana but diverted to the more scenic US89 from Springdale through several small, Old West Towns to Great Falls.  We had planned to stop on the outskirts of Great Falls but ran so short on fuel that plans changed.  Conrad, Montana offered the first place we could find with showers and Wi-Fi.  Since we would be staying in the park (Glacier) with no showers, we decided to splurge on the last night before one of our adventure’s highlights.

A word about the trip from Spearfish to Conrad – We really enjoyed the wide open spaces of the rolling hills and miles and miles of golden fields of grain.  BUT … don’t take chances with the fuel.  Services are separated by great distances of golden fields of grain. 

There has been much more to our visit here in East Glacier than mentioned above.  We did see bears and mountain goats.  A black bear we saw up close but the mountain goat and grizzly bears were really nothing more than black dots and white dots on a mountainside  through binoculars or a telephoto lens.  Unfortunately, I have no photos of the wildlife to offer – YET.  We still have West Glacier to explore.

I prefer sunrise in East Glacier to sunset.  Perhaps it will be the opposite in West Glacier.  This is an experiment with HDR processing.  Even with the beautiful and soft light of morning, it is difficult to record the full range of shadow and highlight.  This is three images bracketed at one-stop intervals and merged in Photoshop Elements – after processing with Photomatix.

LATER…

A few additional tips: 

In addition to a container of gasoline for the generator, I keep a five gallon container of diesel in the bed of the truck, just for such occasions as our trip through the vast open spaces and golden fields of grain.

The Duck Lake Road (Montana 464) is a much safer, flatter, and better maintained route into the Many Glaciers and Saint Mary areas than taking the slightly shorter US89 route.  The 89 route sorely needs repair and is a white-knuckle drive.

Should mention also that the Free Shuttle Buses do service Many Glaciers and Two Medicine areas.

I’ll try to remember to contain a few more travel tips with the next edition of the blog.  For now —

That’s All Folks.

l8r

 Email This Post    Print This Post

Home is where we stop.  I thought I would post a picture of our rig.  It is home for the next several weeks and has served us well for the last three years.  It is only 23 feet but very comfortable for the two of us.  

The picture is at some wide place in the road where we stopped for lunch.  I think it is on US89, just a few miles from Sundown Ski Resort in Montana.  Forest Service Campgrounds and BLM properties are our (Jane’s) favorites.  They are cheap and very seldom crowded.  I keep a small generator chained down in the truck bed.  We are fully self-contained, able to survive in the most desolate areas with all the necessary conveniences, not counting internet. 

Continuing our story, we left Wind Cave National Park headed for Badlands National Park and Buffalo Gap Grasslands.  Badlands and Buffalo Gap is a large area, reaching from  Interstate 90, south to the Sioux Indian Reservation. Pine Ridge and Wounded Knee are part of that area.  But, the actual chain of rugged hills is a thin wall that runs only a few miles on the north side of the park.  We spent just two days there in Cedar Pass Campground.   It was in the upper 90s in the Badlands.  We opted for electricity for running the air conditioner all night.  That brought the price of a camping sport to $28 but, we have the National Parks Golden Age Pass.  We get FREE entry into all the National Parks and National Forests AND … Half-Price on camping. 

The Badlands reminded me of the Painted Desert in Arizona.  The rugged rock formations are picturesque in good light but very repetitive – rocks, rocks and more rocks.  I was a little underwhelmed.  It is a real treat for geologists.  And, more and more is being discovered – reels and reels of ancient history.  I like knowing about this stuff but … it doesn’t take much to overdose. 

There is some wildlife. That is more my thing.   I saw mostly birds but did see a couple of mountain goats and a flock of turkey.  I think there are buffalo in areas to the south.

I rushed out alone on our first afternoon there, mapping out hot spots for a morning shoot.  Jane and I were up at six the next morning exploring.  We tracked down some fuel and a cup of coffee in the nearby town of Interior.  The sun came up while I was refueling the truck but we still made it to my first hot spot while the pink glow of morning light wrapped around the rocks.  Then, I got frustrated.   I was setting up my tripod and camera when a morning shower greeted us.  The light faded before I could focus on that pink, morning glow.

We moved on and the rain stopped.  We were on one of the boardwalk paths studying the geological and anthropological history when a bunch of small wrens seemed to be teasing us.  I went back for the camera and got this little fellow (Canyon Wren) to pose for a few images.

There are several viewing areas along the “Badlands Loop.”  Each offers a self-guided tour with different aspects of the badlands.  But, it got very hot, very early,  We chose viewing the Badlands from the comfort of our air conditioned truck cab.

I was finding it hard to concentrate on the rocks.  We had stopped in Wall, a small town on Interstate 90 that is the jumping off place for Badlands National Park.  A Ranger in the Buffalo Gap Visitor Center had peaked my interest in the Grasslands around Pierre, the Fort Pierre National Grasslands.  She had suggested that Sand Hill Cranes were resident there and that Whooping Cranes were just starting their migration.

We left the Badlands early in the morning after our second night of camping.  We made the jaunt east to Fort Pierre National Grasslands in just a few hours.  It got very confusing, however, when we entered the small town of Fort Pierre.  Someone had forgotten to mention the flooding.  The Missouri River had brought the area to its knees.  Nearly every business was affected.  The Fort Pierre National Grasslands Visitor Center had relocated to Pierre to share office space with other government agencies.  All access to the locations we wanted to visit was restricted.  And, there was no place to park a camper.  That was a wasted journey.  But, it was a learning experience. 

A nice young (younger than us) couple had noticed our plight as I wandered around what seemed to be a State Park.  They suggested that we give it up as a lost cause and continue our journey to Glacier.  Oh… they also were Winter Texans.  We had a short but pleasant visit and discussion of Texas and the Rio Grande Valley. 

We spent the rest of the day driving back toward Sturgis and Spearfish.  A hundred dollars of diesel later we found a nice campground in Spearfish.  The day ended on a pleasant note.  Spearfish is a highly touted tourist site in South Dakota.  There are several easily accessible water falls along the Spearfish Canyon Loop.  The next morning, after an aborted trip to see the eagles from atop a desolate hill not far from the campground, we headed for the scenic loop. 

The waterfalls in this picture is Rouglock Falls.  It is a short walk down a paved path after about a mile drive off the main loop.  Bridal Veil Falls was much higher but this was our favorite.  And, it was close to a nice restaurant. 

We had lunch at the Savoy Latchstring Restaurant and Lodge.  The Buffalo Stew and Fried Bread Sandwich was superb.  Jane had a large Quesadilla and neither of us was able to finish our meals.  For $26, tip included, we were able to watch an incoming storm from a beautiful, rustic Inn and make a second meal from what we had left.

We left South Dakota the next morning, taking Interstate 90 west through Wyoming.  We were refreshed, clean (Jane coughed up $29 a night showers and internet) and raring for the next adventure.  We are in Montana.  We plan to move into Glacier National Park tomorrow – Sunday, August 28.  That will be another story along with the rest of how we got here – Conrad, Montana.

l8r

 Email This Post    Print This Post

We’re in the Badlands of South Dakota – Badlands National Park and Buffalo Gap National Grasslands.  This is the first in the series of stops we will be making in the next six weeks to two months.  I’m writing this article in a rush.  Please bear with us.  Internet connections have been scarce.  I hope to post much more “refined” articles as we progress across the top of our United States of America.

We arrived in South Dakota a day earlier than expected.  We made good time across Oklahoma, Kansas and Nebraska.   Our trip across the bread basket of America was rather enjoyable.  it reminded me of when the family farm was the soul of agriculture.  I really liked the green rolling hills after leaving drought-stricken Texas. 

Our first stop was in Perry, Oklahoma.  The campsite was only $20, which is a few dollars above Jane’s tight budget.  It probably was overpriced at that.  It was convenient.  We were tired and the spot was long enough to spend the night without disconnecting. 

There was a fright in Nebraska.  I wanted to make 500 miles before stopping. It was getting late when  we ran into a rain storm that turned to hail.  I pulled into a side road, trying to find shelter under a tree.  The side road turned out to be a farmers road into his fields.  Getting our rig turned around was exciting.  But we managed and only a few miles further on were rewarded with FREE camping in a City Park in O’Neil, the Irish Capitol of Nebraska. 

The campground included complete hookups and hot showers.  We have seen such parks on previous trips.  It is a good way of keeping tourist dollars in the small town’s economy.  We appreciated it enough to fill the fuel tank even though we still had half a tank.

We later learned that a tornado had touched down a short distance from where we had pulled into the farm road.  The stormy weather created a beautiful, somewhat frightening, sunset. 

Again, we had spent the night without disconnecting and were on the road before nine o’clock – a ridiculously early start for us. 

We were in Elk Mountain Campground – Wind Cave National Park, South Dakota; disconnected, completely setup and exploring the the area by mid-afternoon.  We drove through Custer State Park to get to Iron Mountain Highway and its three very narrow tunnels.  Each tunnel leads to progressively more interesting views of Mount Rushmore.  The drive along Iron Mountain Highway is an experience in itself, the kind of drive motorcyclists and sports car enthusiasts love.

Iron Mountain is only one of several “must do” drives in the Black Hills.  Needles Highway is another.  We were very tired, however, and saved Needles and the Wildlife Loop around Custer State Park for another day.

A great meal at Cattlemen’s Steak House in Custer concluded an eventful day and made Jane happy.  We both were much too tired  (and hungry) to worry about preparing a meal in the trailer.  Prime Rib and a rib eye steak were only $35 and prepared to absolute perfection.  Should you ever pass through Custer City, South Dakota, a meal at Cattlemen’s Steak House is worth every penny.

The rush to get to South Dakota in three days had really worn me down.  I was in bed, asleep before dark.  The sleep did not last long.  A large storm move in and spent the night right over our campsite.  Lightning, booming thunder and constant rumblings accompanied a downpour.  It rained nearly all night.  And, lightning and thunder made sleeping intermittent at best.

But, I was up with the sun and off to see the wild things.  I left Jane to finish her beauty rest and headed to a town of prairie dogs that we had spotted on the way in.  They are really fun to watch and rather tame, considering that they are in the wild and NOT completely protected.  I got to watch a coyote catch and eat one of the little fellows.

It is a distant shot but that is a coyote eating a black tail prairie dog.

The wildlife was active but the area so vast that the morning light was gone without a lot of photographs.  I saw the prairie dogs, buffalo, pronghorn antelope, and mule deer but they weren’t doing anything interesting.  A feeding animal doesn’t generally make exciting images – unless it is eating another animal. 

I did make plans for the late-day light though, as I drove back to the campsite.  Jane had breakfast ready and we made “loose” plans another adventure. 

Most of the sight seeing drives start in or around Custer State Park.  There was no charge for driving the Iron Mountain Highway but for Needles and the Wildlife Loop there is a $15 fee.  The fee is good for seven days, however, and there is a lot to see and do within the park.

I should mention that Wind Cave National Park is really about the cave.  I’m sure it is interesting and the formations in the cave are unique.  But, we have done several cave tours.  We may have missed something but both prefer our adventure above the ground.

The Needles Highway drive was fun.  The Wildlife Loop around Custer State Park less so.  Maybe we were too early.  The only wildlife we saw was buffalo, pronghorns and the infamous wild burros.  There was even more traffic than the Needles drive and tour buses frequent the Wildlife Loop.  The Iron Mountain and Needles drives are restricted to passenger vehicles.  The twists and turns are much too tight for buses, motorhomes or trucks with trailers.  My opinion of the Loop probably was influenced by the rudeness of some tourists.

On our final day in the Black Hills, I made a few videos of the prairie dogs and a buffalo herd.  I need a lot of practice to develop any kind of skill as a videographer.  I keep forgetting that I have the capability.  That may be because I have to think so hard to get decent still pictures. 

But, sometimes they just happen.  One of my favorite images from the Black Hills set is a baby pronghorn antelope nursing. It was strictly serendipitous — right place at the right time.   I had been concentrating on the male (buck?) when the young antelope (kid?) got hungry.  There is a heavy shadow but the image is interesting.  It will make it into the family slide show. 

We spent our final day relaxing on the “1880 Train Ride” from Hill City to Keystone and back.  It would probably have been more enjoyable had we not already ridden the old steam train from Chama, New Mexico to Antonito, Colorado.  In comparison, the 1880 train was very disappointing.  But, our stop for ice cream in the 1950s Diner was a hit.  Finished the day on a Happy Days note. 

We spent three nights in the Black Hills.  There is plenty to see and I’m sure we missed most of the sights.  There is just too much to see in our big, beautiful country.  As they say (I’ve heard) – for every image you capture, you have missed thousands. 

On to the Badlands.  That will be in a different gathering of a thousand words.

l8r

 Email This Post    Print This Post

I’m just back from another great weekend of motocross and photography.  I spent the weekend of April 15 through April 17 at Diamond Don Rainey’s 9th Annual AHRMA Riverport National Vintage Motocross Event in Jefferson, Texas.  This was the third round in the AHRMA Vintage Motocross and Post-Vintage Motocross National Championship Series.

Each event in the series honors one of motocross’ legends and heroes.  The honored guest for Diamond Don’s event was the venerable “Professor” Gary Bailey.

The huge Mobile Motocross Museum vehicle was on hand to host the Legends and Heroes of Motocross and provide an area for sponsor displays.  Alex Moroz, General Managing Partner of the Mobile Motocross Museum, makes this RV/Toy Hauler rig available at select racing events around the country – AHRMA events, Supercross and the upcoming Motocross races. There is constant entertainment with ongoing historical videos and racer interviews.  And a place for visitors to meet the many motocross legends who gather there to sign autographs and bench race with visitors and each other.

The bike on display is the one Brad Lackey rode in his final GP in 1983.  That is Scott Sears and Lendon Smith, the guys who built the bike for Lackey.  There is always an interesting display in the Legends and Heroes area; static displays and the people (legends) who made them memorable.

ED Note: roll your cursor over images for captions.

Enough with the formal reporting.  I want to tell everyone what an exciting weekend it was for me, the motocross fan … and occasional professional photographer.  I heard about this 100cc Motocross Challenge through the grapevine.  That got the juices flowing.  I could just imagine Tommy Croft and Tommy Benolkin banging bars on a couple of 100cc Pentons; maybe a Hodaka Super Rat. 

I wanted to go but had to convince the Finance Minister (wife) that we could afford the trip.  Or, that I could sell a picture or two.  Then, BINGO!!!  Racer X showed some interest in Diamond Don’s Vintage Race.  The Finance Minister had her own event scheduled but gave me approval and an advance on my allowance.   Jefferson, Texas, Here I come. 

I didn’t get it in writing but was convinced that what interested Racer X was this 100cc Challenge.  I gathered more information and learned that it is officially a Marty Tripes two-race series called the Marty Tripes 100cc Works Revenge.  All the official stuff is Here

I made arrangement for my credentials far ahead of time.  I’ve covered several special events at Diamond Don’s and have been invited to cover the race on occasion.  Thanks Don and Francene for the hospitality and media support.  I love this stop on the AHRMA tour.

I found a parking spot  right next to the track,  grabbed info on race order and rider numbers at rider registration and wandered around asking anyone who might know him if they had seen Davey Coombs.  I stumbled into Brad Lackey and chatted for a bit.  He had seen Davey but didn’t know where he was hanging out.

I gave up and started shooting the action.  The sun was really harsh and I toyed with several techniques for softening shadows.  My new Nikon SB600 Speedlight allows for high-speed sync (shooting at shutter speeds beyond 1/250).  That helped but the recycle time is way too slow for shooting fast action.  I settled on keeping the sun to my back or softening shadows in post-processing.

For those with the SB800 or SB900, they are the more expensive version.  I’m certain they will do an even better job than my SB600.  I’m not sure if they recycle any faster?

I was able to get a few good shots and was really enjoying shooting, not really paying any attention to who was leading or who the rider might be.  Soon, it was time for the Marty Tripes 100cc race and still no contact with Davey.  I setup in my favorite position on the track and got ready for the action.  When I checked my rider list there was nothing for the Marty Tripes Race.  I knew that Tommy Croft was there.  Tom Benolkin wasn’t.  I hate to rub it in but … “You really missed a good one.” 

I decided to take pictures of everyone and sort it out later.  There were several REALLY fast riders. They were flat wringing out those little 100cc engines.  I love that sound and the smell of 2-stroke exhaust.  Does that remind you of that Vietnam movie, Apocalypse Now? 

I was pretty sure that number 76 had won and that 94 was probably second.  57 was up there too.  Damn, that 76 looked familiar – his riding style that is.  I realize you can’t see who is under all that safety gear.

Most ‘Old School” race fans will see this picture and know immediately who it is.  Don’t roll your cursor over the image yet.  Are you an “old school” fanatic? 

Anyway, I finished shooting the races, took pictures of the posted results and stowed my equipment in the truck.  I guzzled a Gatorade with some salty stuff while checking through my images.  Not bad.  I’ll get together with Davey later and coordinate the upload.

I finally crossed paths with Alex Moroz, former AHRMA National Off Road Director and a guy in the know.  He passed on a message from Davey Coombs.  “Just shoot everything..”

Alex did suggest shooting the Legends and Heroes van.  Of course he did; he’s the General Managing Partner – just kidding, Alex.  It’s OUR museum and can use some publicity.   Alex also indicated DC wanted atmosphere; old bikes, family picnics, bench racing, etc.  Okay, I can do that.

I looked up Marty Tripes.  He didn’t recognize or remember me.  Not a surprise – I had last seen Marty in Cingoli Italy in 1981.  He was riding for Team Husqvarna in the World Championship series and not thrilled with his equipment.  (more on that another time.)

We chatted and I moved on, taking a few pictures and deciding to make an early departure.  My luxury accommodations (Motel 6) were in Marshall, a few miles south, and I needed some computer time and recharging … camera batteries, computer batteries and me.

The festivities at an event hosted by Diamond Don’s crew are built around good old southern hospitality; plenty to eat, plenty to drink, music, dancing and fun for everyone.  If you can make only one vintage event in a year, you will be disappointed if it isn’t this one.

DAY TWO – Sunday

Legendary motorcycle racer Steve Wise was on hand to offer morning worship services and kicked off the races with a benediction that was followed by a local singer’s rendition of the Star Spangled Banner.

Through my early morning exploring, I found that Marty Tripes was in charge of ALL things related to the 100cc Works Revenge race.  Marty was very busy but found time to get me the info for identifying what and who I would be photographing – plus results from the previous day’s race.

I looked up and was nearly floored.  Could that be Jim Gibson?  Then it hit me – NUMBER 76 IS JIM GIBSON! I had met Jim and Christy (Jim’s Finance Minister) at the Trophy des Nations in Gaildorf, Germany in 1982.  Jim signed with Yamaha that year to race the 125 World Championship Series in 1983.  You can read about that here.

I photographed Jim’s first race on the YZ125 in Best, Holland as he and Yamaha went after the 125 World Championship in 1983.

Jim also didn’t remember me, of course, but I certainly remember him.  How could anyone forget that riding style.  I am embarrassed that I didn’t immediately know that Number 76 and the guy on the left are one and the same.  Did you recognize Number 76 in the previous picture?

I still hadn’t found Davey Coombs but Alex caught up with me at the Sunday morning riders’ meeting.  DC had to catch a flight.  Then I found out that Davey had been racing yesterday (Saturday).  He rode the 40 plus Expert Class on a Vintage RM 250.

I later saw a picture someone had posted.  Davey was number 32; 32?  That’s one of the riders I had used for testing the SB600 and fast sync speeds.  Notice how the shadows are opened on his jersey and face mask.

Further investigation showed that he was a pretty decent rider.  He even held his own against two-time World Champion Trampas Parker as they rode bar-to-bar down the start straight.

I spent most of Sunday morning in the Marty Tripes camp, talking with Marty, Jim Gibson, Tommy Croft and a fun crew of old-timers entered in the Marty Tripes 100cc Works Revenge.  During preparations, Jim switched from the RM100 he had ridden on Saturday to a hot little YZ100 that he really liked.  Jim entered the Post-Vintage Grand Prix 125 Expert Class riding that little YZ100 and ran away with the win.  He claimed the YZ for the second moto of the 100cc Works Revenge.

The Post-Vintage races are always exciting and I did find a spot close to my truck with the sun to my back.  I got pictures between walking back and forth to shoot the breeze with the Works Revenge bunch.  I have some decent pictures but was anxious to watch my new friends squeeze every horse out of a bunch of screaming little 100s.

Gibson grabbed the holeshot on his #8 YZ100 with Tommy Croft riding a wheelie right behind on a Super Swift Hodaka Super Rat.  The #94 is Jarrett Austin, a riding buddy of Jim Gibson’s and Racer X is Lee Hunter.

The Works Revenge was divided into classes according to combined weight of rider and bike.  It seemed fair but made following the race difficult.  It was easy to see, however, that Jim Gibson was  GONE like a shot.  Jarrett Austin stayed closest but Gibson was on fire.  He started lapping the field on the second lap.

Marty Tripes is emailing me the results but, to me, it was more about watching the Legends ride than about who won.  If you want to know, you should be able to Google the results.  Or, find them at the official Marty Tripes 100cc Works Revenge web site.

Following are a few more pictures of the Works Revenge guys having a great time at Diamond Don’s absolutely perfect motocross track.  Old School, Baby! 

That’s enough for one session.  Roll your cursor over the image for info.  Had a blast watching you guys ride.  Now just one more thing,

Diamond Don Rainey says, “Y’all come back next year; ya hear.”  “

 Email This Post    Print This Post

I’m still feeling the effects of our contact with that band of wild horses.  Ever since childhood I have loved anything to do with horses, the wild west, cowboys and a lifestyle that is the  cornerstone of our American heritage.  We chose the eagle as our national symbol but I think, had they known of wild horses, our founding fathers may have seen them as the quintessential symbol of freedom.  I copied the following from a sign at the BLM Wild Horse Corrals in Rock Springs, Wyoming.  It really moved me emotionally.

“Wild Mustang”

He’s desert bred, he’s underfed, and tough as a pinion tree.

No cowboy pals, no pole corrals, just wild and runnin’ free.

No thing of beauty, most would say, but beauty’s hidden there.

It’s in the blood of a rangy stud, and the heart of a mustang mare.

Robert Wagoner

We’ve left the horses but I can’t stop thinking about them.  That was a special encounter; one that I will never forget.  This Robert Wagoner poem is much more than words for me.   It is a feeling that I can’t find the words to express.  It is a bit frustrating, not being able to say it.  Feeling it is good enough for now.  The poem and being here make me feel good about living and life. 

We’re having a great time traveling south.  We’ve left Wyoming, explored Utah and ventured into northern Arizona.  We did “turn left” out of that RV Park under the Mormon Temple in Manti, Utah.  I had mistakenly identified it in the previous blog post as being in Ephraim.  At least, I had the San Pete Valley correct. 

We followed a very scenic US Highway 89 all the way to Kanab, Utah.  Kanab is a crossroads and jumping off point for many of the sights in the southern Utah/northern Arizona area.  Zion, Bryce Canyon and Grand Canyon National Parks are only a few of the areas of interest in this pink sandstone paradise adjacent to Grand Staircase Escalante National Monument.  We parked and made ourselves at home.

Our first excursion from Kanab took us to Coral Pink Sand Dunes State Park.  It was a late afternoon, spur-of-the-moment trip that went well into the night.  I photographed a sunset and watched the full moon rise as the sun was setting.  It was a peaceful and rather romantic evening.  The sand dunes reminded us of Egypt. 

Kanab is well known for western movies.  Hundreds of movies and a few television series were filmed in part or entirely in this area.   An old Gunsmoke movie set is in ruins but visible from the Johnson Canyon Road.  It is in bad condition but rumored to be planned for renovation.  I took a few pictures but had a hard time visualizing Miss Kitty and the Long Branch Saloon. 

Touring the local “Little Hollywood Museum” was interesting but taking pictures of the FREE access to relocated movie sets was almost impossible without including signs, posters or modern conveniences such as electrical wiring.

Most of our sightseeing in Kanab was from the truck.  There is a lot to see but most hiking excursions are longer or have more elevation change than our old bodies are prepared to handle, especially since we always carry thirty to fifty pounds of camera equipment.  Jane has been a real sport about helping, actually insisting that I let her carry something.  She seems to have set aside her photography career in favor of being my support.  That’s good and bad; I appreciate her help but was impressed with the progress she was making as a photographer. 

After three days in Kanab, we headed for the place and photographs that have eluded us over the past couple of years – Page, Arizona and Antelope Canyon.  We stopped in Page two years ago specifically to get pictures of Antelope Canyon and to try for the lottery selection to The Wave.  Both can be found via a Google search.

Antelope Canyon is a pay-as-you-go tourist attraction near Page on Navajo Reservation and requires Navajo guides to transport and escort visitors.  There are tours designated as photographer tours that cost a bit more but allow much more time and crowd control assistance.  Scheduling mixups had pissed me off on the previous visit so I left in a fit of anger – without pictures.

The Wave is a BLM (Bureau of Land Management) site with limited access.  We were unable to schedule a visit on the previous trip.  Getting selected is less of a problem for us than the hike itself.  Two years ago, we were in much better shape.  Now, however, nearly eight miles carrying camera equipment is a bit much. 

My idea was to find a horseback tour into The Wave.  That isn’t allowed.  Bummer!  So, we put all our eggs into the Antelope Canyon basket.   We booked the photographer’s tour and everything started great.  We were in a truck of just eight photographers.  I was all smiles.  Then, it turned to crap. 

I got a few pictures but out of control masses made it a terribly frustrating trip.  I could not believe the crowds in that small place,  And, the lack of crowd control promised photographers.  It was horrible.  However, after blowing off some steam, the crowds began to disperse.  The final 30 minutes was worthwhile.  I came away with a few acceptable images and have already had a few sell at one agency.

If you ever are in this area of Arizona – and most people who visit Zion and/or Grand Canyon National Parks are – it is a must see.  Even if you are not a photographer, this canyon is absolutely amazing – Beautiful! Majestic! Awesome!  Think of your strongest adjective for awe inspiring beauty and multiply that by a bunch.  I loved it – even if I did get frustrated over the crowds.  

ED Note:  The crowds were European and Asian.  If you live in the USA, It might be better to wait for the dollar to recover some value. 

One other adventure in the Page area that is worth while is a boat trip on Lake Powell.  We booked the “Canyon Adventure” from the Glen Canyon National Recreation Area Resorts Lodge.  It was $60 per person for a two and a half hour tour of two slot canyons that are accessible from Lake Powell, Antelope Canyon and Navajo Canyon.  It was a picturesque and relaxing tour on a huge boat that carried approximately 50 passengers.  The canyons were not nearly as tight as the walking tour but still were tight enough to amaze us that such a big boat could turn around. We also made a loop into the area of Glen Canyon Dam.

Again, we left one place with no particular “next place” in mind.  We had never seen Sedona and aimed the truck in that direction, headed south on US-89.  That trip is some of the most wild west scenery one could ever see.  I will save a report on that for another blog.  I hope you will stay tuned.

l8r

 Email This Post    Print This Post

Yellowstone National Park is Old Faithful, buffalo herds and history.  We’re seeing plenty of all that.  We have yet to photograph Old Faithful, however.  I had planned to make a video but we seem to always get to the area after a tiring day of sightseeing.  We’ve now landed in Rock Springs, Wyoming and never recorded a video in Yellowstone.  That is a bit of a bummer but not a party stopper.  We may get back this way.  Cold weather caused us to cancel our plans for Glacier National Park and the tentative plan to travel down the West Coast on the return trip home.

We stayed six days in Yellowstone and barely scratched the surface of things to do and sights to see.  We did manage to travel both the north and south loops of the figure eight layout of the park roads.  Old Faithful, Hayden Valley and most of the thermal features are on the southern loop.  Mammoth Hot Springs, Lamar Valley and much of the history are on the north loop.

Mammoth Hot Springs was a highlight.   I had not expected such natural beauty and spent much more time there than allotted.  Mammoth Hot Springs is Park Headquarters and, I assume, one of the oldest developed parts of the park.  It was a Military Garrison when the US Army was in charge of maintaining the park.  It still maintains that historical air.

The beautiful falls or, more accurately, geological and biological flows of hot liquid chemicals and minerals bubbling from deep beneath the earth’s crust cascades over layer upon layer of terraced castle-like stone features. This hydrothermal feature’s colors are more pastel than those of the southern loop.  The light kept changing and with each change I took more pictures.  It was hard to pull ourselves away.

And, after leaving, we found an upper level of Mammoth Hot Springs.  The castle-like stone feature were a part of the upper level, as well, but the upper level was a lot of colorful pools at different levels with water flowing over the sides, forming pool after colorful pool of sheer graceful, Kodak beauty.

Colors of the hydrothermal features along the southern loop seem much more intense, saturated. Flows from these geysers and springs deposit an unbelievable amount of water into the Firehole River, which just happens to be a trout fisherman’s paradise.  The Firehole River Geyser Basin is also a favorite of photographers.  I’ve seen many images from here by such as David and Joseph Muench.  The entire Muench family is on my list of favorite photographers.

There is a very accessible boardwalk around the Midway Geyser Basin.  It is a short walk filled with photo opportunities.  The ever-changing light and wind-blown steam  emphasize patience as a virtue.  It is a place to which I would return frequently; if I had the time. 

The image to the right is the color straight from the camera; no saturation added.  The intensity of these colors is just absolutely mind-blowing.  At least it is to me.  I find it satisfying also that my colors nearly match those of the amazing Muench brothers. 

Ed Note:  I should also mention that I was using a polarizing filter.  Polarizing filters, however, are only effective when the sun is at a right angle to your subject – side-light.  They also reduce your light reception by one f/stop.

Two of our favorite wildlife observation areas were Hayden Valley and Lamar Valley.  Hayden Valley is on the southern loop.  Since both our campsites (Grant Village and Fishing Bridge) were on the southern loop, we saw much more of Hayden Valley.  Lamar was a day trip in which we drove through and back, leaving the park through the Northeast Gate and stopping for a fantastic lunch at a small resort in Silver Gate, Montana.

We’ve seen a few elk, lots of mule deer, herds of buffalo but not a single moose.  There was a “possible” wolf sighting in Lamar Valley on the return trip from Silver Gate.  We saw a large group of people and one of those bright yellow Yellowstone buses and checked out the commotion.  Everyone was excitedly pointing out a small group of dots that moved.  Maybe they were wolves.  They were much farther away than the group of coyotes that I mistakenly (not a confession) took for wolves. Since the yellow park bus was there … maybe. 

We also saw a black bear walking beside a river in the upper elevations as we were returning from Silver Gate.  He was close enough the be really exciting but too far for a decent image; plus it was too dark to stop even a slow-moving target.  All in all, I felt the Lamar Valley tour was a bust.  We counted a whole lot more critters in Hayden Valley – and, were able to get really close.  Our best elk sighting was in the Firehole River Basin.  I also “almost” got an image of an osprey snatching a trout from Nez Perce Creek.  Actually, I did but it was not one that I would share. 

Our time in Yellowstone was marked by cold mornings and warm, beautiful afternoons.  The cold of the evenings, however, was enough to convince us that continuing into Montana and Glacier National Park was not a good idea.  We had been told that one of my primary objectives (Going to the Sun Road) had already closed for the season.  We considered crossing Idaho into Washington but learned that many of the sights in Olympic National Park were also closed.  We chose a southerly direction for our next destination.  Not sure where, we stopped in a KOA campground in Rock Springs, Wyoming until we could make a decision.  It took three days to decide.

While deciding, we toured Flaming Gorge National Recreation Area and followed the Wild Horse Loop through a large section of Bureau of Land Management property.  We took only a few pictures in the gorge and noted several campsites should we choose to hangout in the relaxing, wooded atmosphere.  Also of note is the Sheep Creek Geological loop.  Beautiful country and an entertaining drive – lots of elevation change.

Wild horses was the best part of the Rock Springs stay.  I had given up on chasing the Pryor Mountain herd.  Thankfully, it could not have been any more productive than our excursion to the BLM Wild Horse Corrals and the mustangs we came across on the White Mountains in Sweetwater County, Wyoming.  Known as the Pilot Butte Herd, they really put on a show for us.  Jane spotted a small herd (we counted 18) near a tall communications tower.  There was a dirt road that led right to them and they only stared as we got near. 

We sat for nearly an hour, watching the colts play and nurse and the stallions challenge and posture.  I don’t know a lot about them, but thought there should only be one stallion with a group of mares?  There were at least four stallions in our group. 

Though I didn’t understand, that was probably a good thing.  I got some good pictures of them posturing, challenging, biting and rearing to fight.  It never got really serious but made some good pictures.  Most of the action pictures were rejected, however, by my agent.  Pushing the ISO to 400 stopped the action but introduced too much digital noise.  I have GOT to learn how to control that. 

We’ve left Rock Springs.  We’re wandering, still no specific destination.  We’re camped now near Ephraim, Utah at the Temple Hill Resort – a Mormon High Holy Place.  There is a beautiful temple here that is said to the be the fourth oldest in the Mormon culture.  It was built over a twenty year span in the late 19th century and is the site of annual LDS Cultural celebration.  Ephraim is a farming and ranching community located in the San Pete valley and irrigated from the San Pete River.

We’re now into our second day here with no pressing need to make a decision.  I have an internet connection – again, very sketchy – and little reason to be pressured into a major decision.  As Jane says, “The decision is to turn left or to turn right.” 

l8r

 Email This Post    Print This Post

We’ve moved to Yellowstone National Park.  The journey took us along a scenic byway in Idaho and through West Yellowstone, Montana, entering Yellowstone via the West Gate.  I’m writing this from Grant Village RV Park in the southern part of Yellowstone.

I think most of our goals for the visit to the Tetons were accomplished.  I did not get an image of the Tetons reflecting on the still surface of a lake or river.  I suppose the images of a cloud-shrouded Teton Mountain Range could be accepted in lieu of the reflections.  Sighting the large bull moose was a highlight of our visit in Grand Teton National Park.  We saw a lot and did a lot but had run out of excursion ideas a day or so before leaving. 

Seeing the Tetons from the west side in Idaho was not as impressive as from the east.  We toured the scenic byway from Tetonia to Ashton seeing an entirely different landscape.  The rolling hills of eastern Idaho are farm country.  There were golden fields of grain as far as we could see.  We learned too that this area of Idaho, in addition to the unending fields of grain, is the largest seed potato growing area in the world.

Our priority for a place to spend the night was hot showers and internet access.  We found the showers and nice bathrooms but the promise of internet access did not materialize.  I wrote it off as trivial.  I’ll get some of this stuff posted as I get the chance.  And, whatever is selling at the agencies will still be there for me to see when we do find a Wi-Fi link.

We spent two days in Ashton.  We made a loop around the Mesa Falls Scenic Byway, visiting both the Upper and Lower Mesa Falls on Henry’s Loop of the Snake River.  A most exciting excursion was into the Big Springs area of Targhee National Forest.  The drawing card to that area is Johnny Sack’s Cabin.  John was a very small man and very talented woodworker.  His house and furniture were scaled to his size.  It was quite amazing what he was able to accomplish so many years ago.

However, the most exciting part in my mind, was the springs itself; the clear water and the wildlife in the area.   While watching muskrat and some of the largest rainbow trout I have ever seen, we spotted a bald eagle perched in a distant dead tree.  It was too distant for a decent photograph but Jane spotted a trail that seemed to lead along the river right beneath the eagle’s perch.  She was absolutely right.  We found a spot just across the river from the eagle’s perch, resulting in some decent pictures.  The smooth gray skies gave left the eagle highlighted against a nearly pure white background.  It also gave me fits getting the exposure correct. 

West Yellowstone, Montana is a bustling little burg.  It seems to have everything you could want and then some.  We didn’t stop but our path took us past what must have been most of the city.  Did you ever notice how tourist towns manage to make you drive past nearly every business? 

The drive around the southwestern circuit of Yellowstone National Park is lively, a Kodak moment around every turn.  We saw bison, elk, a pair of wolves, fly fishermen, traffic jams and many, many geysers and thermal pools.  I stopped and took a picture of our first sighting of steam.  The cool weather emphasized the steam over the thermal areas and the geysers. Our first sighting was nothing compared to what was in store for us. 

We skipped much of this portion of the loop, planning to return without the trailer.  We drove through the Old Faithful area on the way to our campground but those crowds can be very intimidating while pulling the trailer.  It was a mess.  There was no place to park and the area is huge – hotel, restaurants, service station, gift shops, visitor center; nothing seemed to be within walking distance.  It was just too much for this old country boy.  It made me consider the 12-hour Bus Tours that leave daily from several lodging sites.  But, later experiences with the throngs on those buses changed my mind. 

We drove on to our camp site to lighten the load and get setup and make a plan for seeing this wonderful Yellowstone National Park.

Our high spirits were dampened at Grant Village RV Park Registration.  My debit card was rejected and we soon learned that our checking account had been debited over $3,000 in fraudulent charges.  I’ll spare you the details since this is about travel, photography and fun.

After parking the trailer and accomplishing a few odds and ends, we drove back to Old Faithful.  The weather was being very uncooperative – rain, snow, and cold.  We had a ridiculously expensive meal in the Old Faithful Grill (I forget its real name) and gathered some information at the Visitors Center while awaiting our first sighting of Old Faithful erupting.  She spewed forth steam and hot water right on schedule.  It is amazing how accurately the rangers predict each eruption.

It was after dark as we returned to the campground.  We climbed to over 8300 feet on the way with snow increasingly heavy as we climbed.  We made two crossings of the Continental Divide.  We were expecting over two inches of snow in the campground during the night.  We got much less than that, mostly mush and mud.

We set out Saturday morning for a venture of the entire southern loop of the park.  The roads in the park form a figure eight; the southern half of the park on one loop and the northern half on the other loop.  We drove past West Thumb and turned east around Yellowstone Lake.  We accidentally discovered the Yellowstone River waterfalls – Upper Falls and Lower Falls.  The falls must be a favorite spot for the tour buses.  It was crowded.  But, we managed to force our way forward (wildly swinging my tripod may have helped) to a spot on the rail that I intended to use for panorama or HDR.  As it turned out, I found the single image most effective. 

I liked the Lower Falls best.  I think upper and lower are not references to height but to whether the falls are located on upper or lower parts of the river. The Lower Falls may actually be the higher of the two? 

Three mule deer bucks feeding beside the main road caused a major traffic jam.  I managed to get a few shots before the rangers arrived. 

A highlight of the day was out choice of a picnic area.  It was high above the Yellowstone River, looking across a beautiful, grassy meadow.  I managed to stir a big controversy over whether the dog-like creatures below us were wolves or coyotes.  I’m embarrassed.  It was probably a mama coyote and three pups.  My argument was based on “coyotes don’t run in packs.”  I drove away rather than confess. 

We came to a huge herd of bison (bison-buffalo, who cares!) along the Yellowstone River with rolling hills of grassland in the background.  It was a Kodak Moment. I got pictures of two young bulls sparring, closeup of a large bull and cow, and this wide-angle image with the herd spread out behind them.  The closeup is the best shot but I wanted the readers to see more of what we were seeing.

Most of the thermal and geyser areas are south and east of Madison – the west gate of the park.  We stopped at a few of the thermal areas but chose to return another day for a more detailed view.  We were tired and hungry.  The full circuit may be too much for one day.  We passed Old Faithful, without pictures again, and made our way across the Continental Divide to the comfort of camp. 

This is again more than 1,000 words. My editing eye seems to be declining with my aged vision. 

We’ll pick up here for the next blogging effort.  Please stay tuned.

l8r

 Email This Post    Print This Post

The hunt for Bullwinkle ended today.  On our return trip from another Wild Kingdom day, we saw a bull moose feeding along the shore of Gros Ventre River, only a mile or two from our campsite. The light was not great but as he patiently fed and posed for the huge crowd that gathered I was able to return to the truck for my longest lens and sturdy tripod.  It still was a problem stopping a feeding moose’s mouth and head as he busily strips the tender willow leaves and chews.  I did not want to boost the ISO more than necessary.  That often gets my images rejected for artifacts (digital noise).  This one is pretty sharp.  I’ll just have to wait for the agencies verdicts. 

Our first full day in Grand Teton National Park was fruitful despite continued frustrating weather.  First we had rain; then heavy overcast; then nice light; then more rain.  It seemed the weather gods were teasing us.  The rain and overcast came at the most inopportune moments.  But, we did enjoy the day’s circuit.

We started early (for us), driving east toward Kelly and turning on the Gros Ventre River Road toward the Gros Ventre Slide.  The “slide” is an area that collapsed, damming the river and forming a beautiful lake that is now a choice camping site for those gutsy enough to pull a trailer or drive a motor home into the area.  The roads are in Bridger-Teton National Forest and not vigorously maintained.

I had noticed the ruins of an old log cabin on the way in.  On the way out, I was in the act of photographing the cabin when a lady puffed her way up the hill from a car parked at the entrance, asking, “Would you like some history on this homestead cabin?” 

“Of course,” I replied, only half interested.

“I was born there,” she continued.  That got my interest.  She went on to tell me about her grandfather Taylor who had built the cabin as required by the homestead grants in those early days of settlement.  She had been unable to convince the National Park Service to restore and maintain the cabin despite continued pleas.  They reasoned that it was not in its original location.  It was truly an interesting encounter.  I love history, especially old west history.   I could hardly believe my good fortune. 

Leaving there, we turned north toward Antelope Flats.  Soon we were delayed by a herd of bison crossing the road, and coming back across the road, and re-crossing the road.   It was frustrating but funny, especially the part Jane played in it.  I kept easing forward but she chastised me, demanding that I stop for the animals; It’s a rule! 

She took some pictures of several of the big bulls.  I snapped a few of the traffic jam.  Then, one huge bull came steadily right at the truck.  He got closer and closer and Jane got nervous. “He’s going to butt our truck!”  He came even closer.  “Warren, you better move.  He’s getting too close.  Warren!  Move it!  Move it.”  So much for “Animals have the right of way.” 

I eased forward with Jane in full panic mode.  Finally, the path parted and we moved away from the bison, headed for Mormon Row on Antelope Flats Road.  I was still chuckling when I saw the Moulton Barn.  It probably is one of the most photographed features in the park.  I’ve seen it absolutely everywhere.  The light was disappointing but I snapped the obligatory images of Moulton Barn, hoping to get better images in better weather/light.

The next day light was much better, along with the weather.  I was up early for sunrise images  over Mormon Row – the barn pictures.  I must have been sleepy or excited; I drove off without disconnecting the RV power cord from the generator that we keep chained down in the bed of the truck.  That story is too long and too embarrassing for details.  Just let it go that I have duct taped the generator together.

The pictures were nice.  I got the light I wanted at TWO of the Moulton Barns.  I then experimented with some multi-exposure panoramas.  The image above is three separate exposures stitched together using Photoshop.   I’ve submitted a couple to several of my stock agencies and awaiting a response.  I hope they like them as much as I do. 

One of our hikes took us from the Laurence S. Rockefeller Preserve to Phelps Lake.  It was a very Wild Kingdom-looking area.  We expected to see wildlife, maybe even a bear.   I got tickled thinking that Jane had decided that $70 for the recommended can of bear repellent was ridiculous.  “They’ll just have to eat me,” she said.  At one point during the hike, Jane left me taking pictures, knowing that I would catch up soon.  She got frightened.  She said she couldn’t help looking for a place to escape should a bear attack.  I started laughing — “Yeah!  I can see you now ‘here bear, take my $70; here’s a hundred.  Keep the change.”  She didn’t think it was as funny as I did.  LOL

The image above is where she left me.  You can just make out that there is a fly fisherman center left.  This is a small cove on Phelps Lake.  The Teton Mountain Range is the background.

On this same outing, we pulled in to Teton Village to see what all the fuss was about.  It was impressive as in MONEY, but not a lot to hold our interest.  I think the Tram up the mountain slopes would have been interesting.  There are hiking trails from the top.  Maybe another time.

The city of Jackson is quite friendly.  And, not ridiculously expensive.  Jane found the prices in the local Albertson’s to be similar to what we would pay in Austin or San Antonio.  I was able to fill the truck with diesel for $2.88 a gallon. 

After finding Bullwinkle for the first time, he just kept popping up. On two different occasions, he dropped by the campsite for breakfast.  Seriously, He laid down one morning and took a nap right beside our trailer.  In the picture, you can see Jane sitting on our campsite picnic table as if she is inviting him to join us. 

Seeing him has become common place now.  He seems to always be at the same place at the same time on the Gros Ventre River.  Unless conditions are really good, we don’t even stop.  I did get a few more pictures of Bullwinkle and Ms. Moose crossing the river.  I still haven’t processed those.  We’ve been to busy having too much fun.

My guidelines tell me that a thousand words is a picture and about all most people are willing to read at one setting.  I’ll save more adventure for another post.  Please stay tuned.

l8r

 Email This Post    Print This Post

This adventure will preempt the completion of last year’s story of our sailing on a windjammer along coastal Maine.  Since retiring, I’ve become even better at procrastinating.  I hope to stay current with this effort, as we work our way across the Western States of North America.  We are in Grand Teton National Park.  We’ll stay here a week to ten days before moving up to Yellowstone National Park.  From there the “very loose” plan is to head into Montana following an excursion into the Pryor Mountain Wild Mustang Reserve.  If the weather doesn’t get nasty, we will venture from Glacier National Park across Idaho to Olympic National Park in Washington.  And from there … we’ll make that plan when we get there. 

We left our Central Texas home the morning of August 27.  The departure was slow due to a planned stop for groceries and RV supplies at a Wal-Mart in Lampasas.  It was a bit past noon before we turned North on IH35.  As luck would have it, we headed into a late summer cold front.  We were bucking a headwind.

Crossing into Oklahoma was a milestone.  It was the first time Jane had been to Oklahoma.  She was excited enough to call her friend Phillias to let her know that we were in her hometown of Ardmore.  We spent a night in Oklahoma at an RV Park better left unmentioned.

Our wind-swept journey across the beautiful ranching and farm lands of Kansas and Nebraska was rushed.  The camera stayed in the bag the entire way, avoiding the temptation to spend several days sightseeing.  It was the first time in Kansas and Nebraska for both of us.  But — The Tetons were calling.

Probably the most exciting part of getting here (Tetons) was the trip across Togwotee Pass.  We had been advised of road construction but were told that it was “not too bad.”  That was a locals advice.  It was a long section of unpaved road.  Pulling a very light, 23-foot travel trailer, we crossed in a snow storm, preceded by rain and sleet.  We were slipping and sliding and the trailer was bouncing.  It was “too bad.”

But, coming down out of those mountains and seeing Grand Teton for the first time was a breathtaking sight.  Even though clouds covered her peak and intermittent rain obscured the view, I was speechless. 

I must add, also, that the trip north along US 287/26 was very interesting.  Passing through Fort Washakie and the Wind River Indian Reservation gave us a feel for the Old West and a rugged lifestyle from which this area evolved.

Dubois is an extremely touristy town along Wind River and a far cry from the rugged far west culture of its surroundings.  It looks (and is) expensive – but beautiful. 

We had learned earlier that Jackson is the town to the south of Grand Teton National Park.  Jackson Hole refers to the entire valley beneath the mountains.  We came into the valley through Moran and drove through Jackson Hole with occasional  “turnouts,” trying to see the mountains through the clouds.  A ray of sun would break through but the peaks remained covered by clouds.  There was heavy snow at the upper levels.

We pulled into our site in Gros Ventre Campgrounds (pronounced grovont) early in the afternoon of August 30.  It was miserably cold with intermittent showers.  Gros Ventre is a no frills campground.  There is a bathroom but now showers and, of course, no hookups.  There is a dump station and potable water.  We’ll be fine for our planned 8-day stay.

A quick lunch and we were off to see the sights.  It was a tad disappointing.  Rain and cold tried to dampen our spirits.  We weathered the conditions, however, managing a few laughs and pressing on.  As Jane would later put it, “We’re having Wild Kingdom day.”

We drove into Jackson for fuel and to get oriented.  We had hoped to visit the National Elk Reserve adjoining Jackson but were disappointed to find that elk would be in the higher elevations until mid-October.  Plan B was an orientation of Grand Teton National Park.

The designated “turnouts” in the park are excellent guides to seeing sights and wildlife.  Even though viewed primarily from inside the truck, we did manage to enjoy a sight-filled afternoon. We drove self-guided vehicle tours of both North and South Jenny Lake drives and climbed to the summit of Signal Mountain.  You can see the entire valley (Jackson Hole) and much of the meandering Snake River from there.  Many of the lakes are also visible – a very impressive view.  But it was REALLY cold atop that windswept, cloud covered Summit.  We were too anxious to get back to the truck to enjoy and extended view.  This photograph is a cloud-shrouded view of the Tetons looking across Jenny Lake.

A really good thing from foul weather is the evening light.  This image is looking east across the valley with the evening sun setting the Gros Ventre Mountains aglow.  With barely enough light on the valley floor to hold the camera steady, I was thrilled with this image.

Our first day was nearly done, but not until we spotted a cow moose browsing in the willow trees along the Gros Ventre River.  It was too dark for photos but confirmed that we definitely were in Wild Kingdom.

With little to do at the campground and the end to a grueling day, we turned in early, hoping for a break in this horribly cold weather.

more l8r

 Email This Post    Print This Post