Plans change – and change and change and change. 

Changing plans is what we do best.  We still are not in Oregon.  We drove right to the bridge crossing the Columbia River into Astonia, Oregon and changed our minds.  We’re in Ilwaco, Washington, camped in a State Park – Cape Disappointment – and sightseeing in the rain. 

This was our second unscheduled stop.  We spent last night in Westport on the Cranberry Coast.  The only reason I can think of is that we wanted to drive close to the ocean.  There was an option to turn right and go to the north end of the road (just to see what’s there) or continue following 105 through the cranberry bogs to Raymond and reconnect with US-101 South.  We turned right!

Westport is a fishing village at the tip of a narrow peninsula that borders the southwestern side of Grays Harbor.  For whatever reason we decided to camp there.  Partly because we wanted some good fresh-from-the-boat seafood.  We found a cheap, ill-kept RV Park run by a Korean man and his wife.  We hit it off pretty good.   His attempt to give us directions in broken English to a good place for a seafood dinner was entertaining. 

I got the trailer parked in a space that was badly in need of some electrical work, plumbing and TV cable.  No Sweat – it’s just for the night.  The Korean man took a liking to our trailer (or, maybe it was to Jane). 

When I finished disconnecting, Jane was escorting him through the trailer, explaining the finer points of our small trailer that was just a few feet bigger than his.  This really concerned me.  It reminded me of the time in Vietnam when we got into a big fight with some Korean Troops over a camera.  It ended in a shooting.  One of our guys shot the Korean who insisted that our guy take $100 for his camera.  I was relieved when the Korean guy didn’t offer to buy our RV. 

We got everything amicably settled and drove to the end of the peninsula, which seemed to be where all the action was.  We spent a lot of time “Sitting on the Dock of the Bay” watching fishing boats and even spotting a couple of seals playing just a little too far away for a good photo.

We saw lots of starfish and were entertained by pelicans diving for their dinner and fighting off hungry gulls surrounding them.

The image of the seal is extremely cropped.  We spent probably an hour watching for the seals and waving at charter boats and commercial fishing rigs coming into the harbor.  But the seals never got close enough to fill the viewfinder with my 200 millimeter lens.

We took a self-guided, no idea where we are going, tour of the peninsula but ended up right back at the Westport Harbor.  The place we chose for dinner was way over-priced and under-deserving.  The food was good (really hit the spot) but was nowhere near worth what we paid.  Sometimes you just bight the bullet.

We turned in early but didn’t sleep well.  We were too close to a busy street with traffic all night long.  We were in no rush to leave, however.  The little Korean guy was so happy to have a paying customer (I guess?) that when asked about checkout time he said, “No time.  Stay long as you like.”  Hmmmm… It had to be Jane and not the trailer.  LOL

With diesel averaging in four twentyish range, we were thrilled to find a station selling diesel for $3.97.  I’m noting this because it could be something to remember when you travel.  The station was on the Shoalwater Indian Reservation.  It was not the first time we had found fuel to be much less on Indian Reservations.  Probably something to do with taxes?   If you are traveling near a reservation, you might make use of this tip.

Our plan had been (again) to move into Oregon.  We would cross the Columbia River on a long bridge into Astoria.  We had not selected a campground.  We had narrowed it down to somewhere between Astoria and  Tillamook, maybe Seaside?  Never happened!!!

Out of the blue Jane says, “Don’t you want to see that long peninsula?”  I’m not about to argue with the Travel Guide.  Of course I want to see that long peninsula.  She was talking about driving up that long, skinny strip of land between Ilwaco and Leadbetter Point.  I actually had expressed some interest in the drive.  I’ll have to share the responsibility for this change in plan.

Anyway, that is how we ended up in Washington for two days more than previously planned.  And, it could be three days.  We’re talking now about setting out the rainy weather right here.  There are two lighthouses that I would like to photograph.  We’ll decide that in the morning – maybe. 

We were parked here, The Cape Disappointment State Park and Lewis & Clark Interpretive Center in early afternoon.  It was windy and overcast but not raining.  We stopped for lunch in Ocean Park.  It was a very good seafood meal; Jane had crab cakes and I had an oyster sandwich.  Expensive but Ocean Park is the typical tourist town.  Lots of lodging and lots of entertainment and lots of expensive.

We continued north toward Leadbetter Point – another state park – and enjoyed a drive around the historical town of Oysterville.  It seems that getting to the beach anywhere in Washington is controlled by the state.  Everywhere we tried to go required the Discover Pass. It is something that irks me but I complain about State Park policies in Texas too.

It was a pleasant drive and we actually enjoyed the quiet solitude of driving home in the rain and fog.  We stopped by the trailheads for both lighthouses here in Cape Disappointment but decided we had better make sure that our camping fee covered access to these points of interest.  No need to pay a $99 fine.  Besides, it was raining a little too hard for the length of the hikes.  We did find that our camping fee will suffice.  We’ll probably check the lighthouses tomorrow.

For now, it is after 10 o,clock, way past my bedtime.

Sunday, September 18 …

“Raindrops keep falling on my head.” 

It rained all night.  We decided that it makes just as much sense to stay here as to move in the rain.  Checking with the park staff, we found that it was supposed to start clearing this afternoon.  Didn’t happen!  But, we got the laundry done and had breakfast at a McDonald’s with Wi-Fi.  I got two more chapters of the blog uploaded and checked the sales record (stock agencies).  Not having the month I had hoped for but there are a few days left. 

We hiked out to the beach at Beard’s Hollow, site of many shipwrecks.  Really ironic story.  The US Government authorized funding for 13 lighthouses along this part of the Pacific Coast.  The ship hauling supplies for the lighthouse here (North Head Lighthouse) sunk just off Cape Disappointment, losing all the supplies and equipment.  True Story! 

We had hoped to hike along the beach and get pictures of North Head Light. It was just out of reach (sight).  We backtracked and hiked the regular path down to North Head Lighthouse in continuously heavier rain and a dense fog bank.  We got soaked getting a few pictures.  And, I am now trying to get the Nikon functioning again.  It got wet.  I can’t get it to work properly.  Seems to be something electrical.  I knew better than to get my gear wet.  The D80 is not as well sealed as the professional models – D3. 

We came back to the trailer to put laundry away and get dry – and warm.  Love that tomato soup and grilled cheese on these dank days.  We’re going to be fine.  And maybe the D80 will recover? 

I think we are on the last legs of our Washington visit.  We’re leaving tomorrow, rain or shine.  There is still time for a few more pictures.  Checkout isn’t until one o’clock.  Maybe the other lighthouse?  In any case, we’ll be traveling the Oregon coast.  There is a lot of beach between here and California – lighthouses too.

See you in Oregon.

l8r

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