I spent this past Friday with my friend and colleague who just happens to be the designer of my website. It was a cold, dank day. Despite the weather we persisted in our planned photo safari. The wind restricted access to our primary subject, wildflowers, so we searched out and photographed structures, animals and flowing water. The flowing water was Bob’s idea. He has a new Nikon D80 and wanted to experiment with slow shutter speeds. Overall, the day was a success and I thoroughly enjoyed our visit.

Experimenting with slow shutter speeds and avoiding the motion created by the wind had me thinking of my background — motor sports photography. It is all about stopping or controlling motion. Also, Bob had asked me about photographing an indoor action event. I thought I would post a few tips on photographing action.

You need two things to get good action photos: some basic action-shooting skills, and some knowledge of the activity you’re photographing. The skills include panning, peak action, follow-focusing, prefocusing and developing a sense of timing. The knowledge helps you anticipate those perfect peak moments that make for great action photos. It does take some practice to perfect the techniques, so once you read about how to do it, go out and practice, and practice some more. Soon you’ll become proficient, and you’ll have some great action photos to show for it.

Start with a fast shutter speed – a fast shutter speed and NONE of the shutter lag usually associated with digital photography. In action photography, there is no place for shutter lag. Neither “prosumer” nor “point-and-shoot” cameras offer the shutter response required for fast action.

When I switched to digital photography my first camera was a Panasonic DMC-LC40. It is a wonderful little 4 MP point-and-shoot with 33~100 (35mm equivalent) Leica lens. I took some excellent action shots of my grandson on his dirt bike but there was a lot of luck involved. It never took a picture of what I was seeing when I pushed the shutter release.

When I returned to professional photography, I bought an 8 MP Panasonic DMC-FZ30, a powerful prosumer digital camera with 12X optical zoom, Leica DC Vario-Elmarit 35~420mm f2.8-f3.7 lens with Macro Focus and Optical Image Stabilizer. It sucked for action photography. The first motorcycle race that I covered was a near disaster. It was good old American flat track. The bikes reach speeds in excess of 80mph. The shutter lag would not allow me to follow focus. The electronic view finder would go black, I’d lose the action, and the camera would record a sharp image of blank dirt track. Prefocus was hit and miss at those speeds. I reverted to what I knew from my past – full manual.

A DSLR is really the only choice. There is no evident shutter lag and the DSLR offers an auto focusing system that is much more sophisticated. It allows tracking a moving target. The “follow focus” capability is discussed in the post about my Nikon D80 . The larger size of the DSLR processor also allows shooting at higher ISO speeds without creating the grainy effect of “digital noise.”

Second is a lens that can get you close to the action without endangering your life. My most treasured photographic possession during my photojournalism days was a zoom-Nikkor 80~200 f4.5. This was before auto focus. Its only auto function was indexing. I still have that lens but mostly as a keepsake.

Today’s lenses offer much more. My AF-S Nikkor 18~135 3.5-5.6G, a “kit lens” that came packaged with my Nikon D80, is equivalent to the old 80~200 in length. The D80 “crop factor” of 1.5 pushes the 135mm to an effective 202mm. It is a bit slow, however.

The AF-S Nikkor 300mm f4 is my latest addition. It cost more than my D80 and the “kit lens” combined. Doubling as a wildlife lens justified the expense. I added a 1.4 teleconverter that gives the lens an effective reach of 630mm at f5.6. At 300mm, this lens is fast and is great for compressing a group of racers in a corner. Compressing emphasizes the bar-to-bar action of a group of racers.

A better choice may be the AF-S Nikkor 80~200 f2.8. A bit more expensive than the 300 f4 but it is much faster and experience has shown that it has enough reach for most situations. It also is the choice of most photographers shooting indoor sports/action. This is what I would recommend for my friend who is shooting poorly lighted indoor action.I’m writing this in Nikonese because that it what I know. Canon, as well as others offers the same choices.

I started writing this from scratch but googled the internet for help. Rather than reinvent the wheel, I will link to one of the most comprehensive articles I have ever seen on the subject. www.steephill.tv/photography/action-photography-tips.html

An all-inclusive article on action photography is overwhelming. Therefore, I am deferring to the referenced article. It is dated August 2003. Equipment and terminology may have changed but the techniques are as relevant as ever.

As this is posted, a few of my action shots are displayed on the Home page. Some are good examples of the techniques referenced in the article. The images will be displayed for only a short period. They may be recalled if requested. I have left this post open for comments. A subject this significant deserves some discussion. Here’s hoping you will join in.

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